Well what a weekend … I’ve walked above the Fleet and traversed the Crouch, some way inland.

The mate wanted to visit a Sherlock Holmes exhibition at the Museum of London and look up St Pancras Old Church where a little something of interest stood. We’d tickets for the Royal Society of Marine Artists annual exhibition too, so on Saturday (yesterday), eschewing the weekly work party down at our club (which I have recently started doing after a 10 month lay off…) we went up to London Town.

Evening in the Pool, River Thames – 1890, by Frederick Winkfield. It shows the Pool looking from a vantage point near where Tower Bridge sits looking towards London Bridge and Billingsgate…

The exhibition about Sherlock Holmes runs for a while longer. It not only covers what he wrote, but where the settings were and what London (in particular) was like at the time. To do this some fine art works were on view including some by the likes of Whistler and Winkfield – who also painted one of the earliest pieces depicting the new Houses of Parliament after its rebuilding. Personally I prefer the glorious work by W L Wyllie. The exhibition interested me for those asides … lovely views around the river. Grand.

Leaving the Museum of London we headed north to St Pancras and found the old church on its hill lording it above the Midland Road on one side, under which sits the Fleet River, and the massive width of those rail lines that sneak into those two fabulous stations of St Pancras and Kings Cross… Why go here?

An early 1800s etching print of Old St Pancrass Church, sitting above the Fleet River.

Thomas Hardy, whilst working for an architect based at offices off Covent Garden, was tasked with reorganising the church grounds including the removal of graves (bodies too) to allow the digging of the railway cutting in the 1860s… Well, an almost unknown number of head stones were stacked round a young ash tree … the tree has grown. The stones still remain stacked against oneanother and are now largely embedded within the base of the tree. Others barely poke above the surface. It is a place of pilgimage for Hardy fans … several people from abroad arrived while we were standing looking!

The ash tree with Hardy’s tombstone arrangement…

Hardy, of course, dropped architecture and concentrated on writing his stirring novels – many of which have passed through my hands… In fact, I think I’m more of a fan than the mate!

The fact that the waters of the Fleet were running almost beneath our feet tickled me: a day or so later they’ll be trickling out with the tide in Sea Reach!

Our next stop was The Mall Gallery where the annual exhibition of the Royal Society of Marine Artists was taking place – sorry folks it finished today… There were many excelent paintings to admire and lust after! I particularly liked a batch by an artist, local to me, Alan Runagall. Two of the ones I could have hung on my wall had been sold … such is life. My wallet is a bit thin though!

What an enjoyable day it was too.

A display of paintings at the Mall Gallery showing pictures by Alan and others…

Today, Sunday, with a forecast given for winds of up to F6 I quickly kicked into touch any thoughts of a sail with the mate.

Went went walking instead, taking a flask of soup and a sandwich for a picnic on the way. We chose a rambling walk back and forth across the Crouch valley west of Wickford. Here we gazed down into crystal clear fresh water running sea wards to meet the tide at some point above Battlesbridge. Some of the views we saw were glorious indeed.

So, although the boat has sat all alone this weekend, we have been close to waters that flow into the estuary we love… Can’t be bad, eh!

I love sailing with my mate but today she had a full day visiting a couple of ‘girl’ friends as well as prepare some bits ready to entertain a friend to supper (I’ve just done my bit of that too…). So I went all alone…

I wasn’t completely alone: the water was coated in places with Brent geese and in the saltings the first flit of swirling winter birds were seen dancing above the saltings as the tide poured into their roosting spots. I saw a poor little gull too. It wasn’t well: it was swimming haphazardly in my creek, well down on the usual marks for such a bird. Mr Fox will get it, I’m sure. Below the kettle was about to sing.

Creeping out of Smallgains under jib, watching the antics of Mr & Mrs Brent…

The forecaster spoke of a south westerly of around 3-5. Hoisting the main inside Canvey Point marshes it was clear that a little more south was held within the wind’s bossom, so without hesitation the boat continued on her tack round as the hoist was coiled away and off we went, scarpering up towards Benfleet as I contentedly sipped my hot drink…

At this time of the year the creek is a bird paradise. Often ‘twitchers’ can be spotted gazing intently into a magnifier… Passing the hides, it was clear that a few lenses poked, provocatively, out of the open portals. I try to view the goings on amongst a flock through my ‘bins’ but one can’t spend too long gazing: I’ve once bumped the marshes during a high tide and have no wish to repeat it!

Passing Bird Island where I’m expecting to see cord grass growing perhaps next spring.

Tide height was 4.7 m Southend. Deep water channel is beyond mud … ‘my’ side is a lovely swatch to sail, even tack, through.

It was covered in Brents arguing over a morsel of eel grass…

I was feeling elated. It was my first sail aboard the little sloop for nearly two weeks. I have, however, had three days on a Westerley Discus (34′) on a trip down from Woodbridge – helping an old pal bring his boat home for lay-up. It was a grand trip, but written about elsewhere (Facebook). Being on ones own craft is different. It feels comfortable. You know where things are … reach out and that ‘something’ is where you last left it. I’d go again though! But I still missed my mate…

Pinching up through the remaining Benfleet club’s boats moored up in their patch I was able to ease the sheets a little as the creek bent in its shallow banana curve down towards the club and barrier. I’d made the passage without the need to put in a tack. Great feeling that – though I’m not against tacking: in the cooler months it helps to keep the body temperature up.

Within this rill sit two Finesse 24s – both seemingly laid up.

It seemed as if the boat shivered as we passed an inlet to a ‘dock’ area where a number of the Benfleet crowd keep their shallow draft craft, I twitched too. Then it struck me that in amongst the masts were two that belonged to two Finesse 24s … both not seen out sailing for a considerable period of time. I’ve met one of the chaps … his boat seemed to be in middle of a long refit, yet also seemingly rigged and ready to sail – shame… There are two other 24s up here. I believe one is out of the water at Dauntless and the other is still sitting in the old ferry rill above the bridge – she’s been painted up, after a fashion, but still not sold as far as I am aware … perhaps I should check!

Coming up towards the Benfleet YC.

All too soon the club house of the Benfleet reared up ahead – time to turn about. Holding the jib aback as it pulled the boat round through 360 degrees, I looked up at the club house and waved: I have a fan who loves to sit and watch… The jib snapped over at my command and we were away, moving a little slower against the tide. I edged into the shallows and wriggled along a 1m line out of the main flood current.

I’ve not been this way much since the spring. Over by the Benfleet Motor Boat Club’s moorings a bit of dredging appeared to be taking place … in the ‘centre’ patch the long run of cord grass and sea asters seems to have thickened somewhat. This is not good news. As I said to the PLA chaps last week, it won’t be long before there isn’t a creek that’s worthwhile using, and that goes for my Smallgains too…

Towards the ‘open sea’ homeward bound…

The broad reach homewards was pure tranquility. A spanking sail, no stress as I supped a mug of something whilst watching the world pass by … and down towards the ‘open sea’ I spied another sail … shortly after I berthed the boat came motoring in too. It was ‘old’ Jack, a long time member of my club and the Benfleet – he used to help pole spritsail barges into the creek as a youngster just before WW2 … he’s still enjoying the water though. Bless him…

The Port of London Authority (PLA) is the organisation that controls the London River from a line drawn across the estuary bordering areas controlled by Dover, Harwich and Sunk etc. They are also the operators for many of the wharves and docks along the tidal Thames. It is their sway over us, the humble yachtsman (man or woman), that is of interest to most of us though.

I have to say, what is going on within the shipping world also has an effect upon us too, however one likes it… Much of this information is pertinent to all who traverse the London River.

Last evening I attended what is part of an on-going series of meetings with the boating, fishing and coastal/river fringe world including other interested parties, such as local authorities. This meeting was held at the Island Yacht Club, a venue which has a large area that can be seated.

The meeting was superintended by Robin Mortimer, PLA Chief Executive. He had a host of staff with him to follow up the expected raft of questions from the audience. These included: Alistair Gale, Director of Corporate Affairs; David Philips, Chief Harbour Master; Catherine Spain, Deputy Harbour Master (Some may know of her when HM for Medway Ports); Julian Parkes, Deputy HM; Martin Garside and others… I had communication with Martin in 2013 about ‘Bird Island’ the area of mud that has risen to around the 4.9m tide mark in Benfleet Creek – all BYC members will know of this patch… It will soon sprout the first shoots of a saltings cover. The PLA then told me it sat no higher than around 4.4m … that is rubbish, of course!

Robin gave the presentation in a slick and constructive manner. Some of this, it was apparent later, went over the heads of a number of non sefaring members of the audience, but David Philips gave an excelent, ‘fools guide’ to the way the river is run…

The vision of the PLA is: A vibrant safe and sustainable river.

A summary of the PLA strategy can be summed as: Safe, growth (use of the river) and enjoyment… (That’s us yachties and boaters…)

Growth was summed up in two sections – trade and pleasure. It was stated the latter were an important part of the PLA’s concern.

Some of the people gathering around ‘the PLA’ following the ending of the meeting … the seating area ws just about full.

Recreation is the amenity that most (Londoners) see the river as being; for walking the pathways and rowing. Down river it is sailing and boating. The PLA has set aside time and effort in getting to know these user groups, which is one of the fundamentals behind the regular meetings.

Commercial fishing, of course, is another small craft aspect that comes under the ‘jurisdiction’ of the PLA which, locally, is governed by the Kent & Essex Fisheries grouping. There are amognst the mix a group of private rod and line craft serving the sea fishing (angling) fraternity – they too need representation.

Thames passenger numbers are expected to rise above the 9 million mark by the end of this year. Shipping tonnage has fallen a little since the current down turn, but inland waterways freight has risen to 5 million tonnes – trebling over three years – this has been largely due to the spoil removal from Cross Rail.

One of the largest container ships is due to pass Canvey Island bound for Thames Gateway on Sunday 19th October. She is an ‘E’ class vessel which is 400m in length with a beam of 50 metres… She’ll be turned round and be off that same day!

It was stated that the spoil from the Thames Tideway Tunnel (Thames Water project) will be by river and is likely (if RSPB bid is accepted) it will go to Wallasea Island. This is a 7 year, £4 billion project. A harbour master for the project has been appointed. This will affect river users who transit to the waters beyond the tideway, but, it was said, the river will never be ‘shut’ but controls will be in place…

We were told that the Island YC, in paricular, is well on top of risk assessment plans for the events held around our waters. Others in the area have not been so! In this respect, I was told, after asking a question about the Thames Barge Match … they fully support this event and that all ‘they’ want is a risk assessment. But, talking to the owner of the Portlight (currently in long refit) this afternoon whilst perambulating along Maldon’s waterfront, the cost of safety craft for this has risen to over £16, 000 which has to be paid by some one…

A sediment study has been carried out by the environment Agency and a report is awaited. The PLA said that movement is taking place (and always has done, I mouthed at the speaker) and it is not truly understood why these things happen. It does not have anything to do with the dredging of the deep water ditch, they said. One only has to look at the width of this: it is a fraction of the river’s girth – some +3 miles off Southend … though many take a different view and I believe this is just to blame something or someone… Changes, locally, were taking palce long before the first dredger in a several decades appeared on the scene.

Against the above I raised the issue of creek siltation and pointed out that in another decade or two the very viability of local yachting could well be at risk. I suggested the remaoval of sea walls … this caused a ripple of horror from some within the auditorium… This, is of course, outside the remit of the PLA, but they did accept that dredging may well have to be an option … an unknown expense to be carried by whom?

The PLA are to investigate the ‘creek’ running across the Maplin Sand to the Havengore. The creek beyond is outwith their control. It was stated by a representative of the Cruising Association that this channel was once buoyed. I have no memory of this in recent years. Old pilotage books for yachtsmen I’ve looked at today do not indicate any such navigational marking, other than a couple of posts by the broomway, however, the PLA area ‘bod’ is going to investigate…

Locally, a Benfleet YC member raised the issue of rubbish in Benfleet Creek … this amounts (he said) to “a large number of black plastic bin bags full of household and boating waste causing blockages in the drainage channel…” The PLA said that they would investigate – this could be an Environment Agency concern… But, it sounds like the rubbish is coming from within the boating fraternity … ouch!

Having sailed up and down the Thames between Tower Bridge and the Nore this last summer, I wanted to obtain from the PLA what their position is with sailing craft, actually sailing. This to include tacking along reaches as needed by the prevailing conditions. The response was grand indeed: as long as a vessel adheres to the navigation rules and ships are not hindered then this a perfectly acceptable method of transiting the river.

N.B. … engines should (shall) be running and engaged – if you have one, and if not they need to know – when transiting the barrier … so I was a BAD boy once, some years ago, for which I was scolded by the mate!

There were various questions from various local groups and the Island’s Council, all outwith the ‘interest’ of yachting folk, however interesting…

One quetioner had an issue about shipping using the ‘outside’ channels that run either side of the ‘gateway’ red/green paired buoys. Essentially, all river users need to be aware that ships, that may look to be large will use the outer passages: many of these, like RoRo’s are of a relatively shallow draft and it is incumbent upon us to be on the look out. Day fishing close to the ship lanes should be avoided.

And, if a close encounter happens to you then the boat’s operator should call the PLA, by phone to preserve their aninimity, straight away so that it can be logged and investigated whilst the ‘offending’ ship is still in the river… It is no use after the event, unless you have a means to save information, which they have… If you feel threatened report it…

The PLA now has an online newspaper… This is called Tidal Thames News. You can find it at www.tidalthamesnews.co.uk

In actual fact, I suppose autumn has been with us for nearly a month, however, it doesn’t feel like it: the fine summer continued to run on and blend blissfully with fine weather as the equinox passed us by. Then, of course, the season really let us know where we are… A week went by when the tides were right, but nothing else was. So, the mate and I set to and completed a make over of one of the borders in the garden!

Apparently, I’m told, the mate had been spreading it around that this was a BIG job. It might have been: an over-grown lilac needed removing … very few leaves and no new growth appeared this last summer. Having cut all the branches off I got set to dig out the trunk. It felt ‘wobbly’ so after a good yank to one side, it snapped off some 400mm below the ground level … one rotten root had been holding it!  A good deep dig over, then the contents of a full compost bin set the bed up for a bundle of perenials that will flower when we are home in the autumn… Job Done!

Back to thinking of sailing…

It had been two weeks between my last outing and today’s foray up to the Island’s (Canvey) other yacht club. Showers were threatened when listening to the morning BBC Essex forecast, but let that not stop one… As my mate always says, “…you won’t melt…”

I felt a little guilty: men and machines were getting worked up for a lift out session down around my club’s slipway, but hey, I was set to look after Number One – Me! My soul needed soothing…

It was glorious. It was just on one (p.m.) as I left the creek, having set my sails off the mooring and spinning the boat about to run outward bound, with thoughts of a ‘run’ up to Benfleet with the tide. A group of ‘loafers’ leaning on the club’s mooring walkway were watching, awaiting for me to go aground – sorry guys … it doesn’t bother me and it wasn’t about to happen.

Reaching up past the inner shore of Canvey Marsh towards the Two Tree Island hard the water was alive with what seemed hundreds of Brent geese. A tack was needed before long … then the wind became a little more kindly and I reached deep up the creek to just below the ‘Benfleet’s’ moorings. The sea wall was alive with many walkers too.

Whimbrel sailing along Benfleet Creek in the autumn – archive picture: I didn’t have my camera aboard.

Passing a couple of channels that run into the western end of the saltings along that stretch I saw wave after wave of Brents fill the placid water, honking and barking in their chattery manner, amongst the gently waving cord grass. I’m no bird specialist, but these numbers must be in the thousands. Wow. It is a privilege, I feel, to be able to see these birds at such close quarters and it is one of the special joys of autumn and winter sailing in my patch.

The terns have all gone, I assume, for I’ve not seen any for several weeks. The over-wintering waders will be congegating soon in large numbers too. I’m looking forward to the aerial dances performed by knot and their hangers on: dunlin, oyster catchers and others often join in, if only as they all take off as the wash waves from ships traversing sea reach rolls in to caress the stripped clay around the island’s eastern marshes…

A flask of home made soup fortified me on the way – chicken and lots of good vegetable – anyway, a couple of short tacks got me through a small group of Benfleet boats still in around the lower end of their shoreside trots.

Reaching the club, I saw it was busy down by their landing pontoon with boats awaiting their turn for a lift out – must be something in the air: it was going on at both ends – so I made a snap decision to spin the boat off the club house! The, sliding over to the shallows where the racing spring tide current was less, I slipped away eastwards with ease, supping my recently made mug of tea.

The mate asked me to give the boat her apologies … she had some piccalilli to make and wanted a quiet afternoon… (I arrived home to find her asleep! When she awakes I’ll be able to say that Whimbrel shed a few tears at her absence…) Clearing the Benfleet’s moorings an ominously dark cloud filled sky that had hung tantalisingly close to the sun, to westwards, crept east. The resulting short deluge gave the decks a good rinse, with large droplets plopping in the remains of my tea!

What the heck: the sun soon came out and I enjoyed a glorious reach back to the creek…

It was grand, and the pickle looks good too!

The mate’s piccallili…

Some hot news from Geoff Gransden … the Edith May’s ‘winter’ season is about to commence.

A group sailing out for an afternoon afloat with one of the barge’s famed teas to enjoy whilst gliding through the sedge…

There is a Jazz Night aboard the barge at her moorings in Lower Halstow Dock – details from poster:

JAZZ NIGHT WITH

‘VOCALION’

TRAD & NEW ORLEANS JAZZ BAND

SATURDAY 1st NOVEMBER

19.30 – 22.30

BOARDING 19.00 – LICENSED BAR

TICKET £15.00

BOOK ONLINE:  www.edithmay.com

TELEPHONE 07875503926

LOWER HALSTOW DOCK LAPWING DRIVE LOWER HALSTOW SITTINGBOURNE KENT

ME9 7DZ And too, the Tea Rooms reopen Friday to Sunday from 24th October, 1030 to 1600. Phone for reservations (No. above)… The light lunches and cakes are yummy too. I know I’ll be over at some point, if only to see the family and their barge. Lovely!

Out on the water a few weeks ago I came across a strange new vessel sitting at a familiar mooring position … the two did not appear to be as per the norm of many forays across the sands as the tide lifted. I have become used to seeing the lovely little barge yacht Nancy Grey sitting off Victoria Wharf, Leigh-on-Sea. She is vessel often seen about when sailing across on the Medway and Swale too…

The Nancy Grey winging her way through the harbour at Queenbororough a few seasons ago with the then owner Nick Hann at the helm, with not a care in the world…

Alas, the sight of this good ship on my ‘winter’ sails will have await summer periods: the good ship has departed to a new owner and her base will be Faversham  a nice place too… Ironically her new owner was the one before Nick himself … back in the fold, as it were! I look forward to renewing my acquaintance, probably around the Swale, next season…

The craft on ‘Nancy’s’ mooring is another ‘barge’ which is of steel construction. Currently the vessel is not rigged, but a main mast sits in the tabernacle with hoops in place for a top mast too … sailing round and round Nick’s new ship we had a longish conversation. He plans to have her sailing within two years and with retirement beckoning for himself and his mate, a more comfortable cruising life was wanted.

Calluna, Nick’s new barge off Victoria Wharf.

I’m told that the wheel house is to be removed – some form of ‘weather shield’ would be useful though – and he may change the colour scheme. “she’s a bit tubby” he said, “but she’s got a shower…” The ship has been in use on the French canals for a number of years. Now she’s back ‘home’ and is to be rigged out for the first time…

Good sailing Nick…

Further up Leigh Creek I came across the lovely looking wooden barge yacht Tiny Mite. She was alongside the club ship of the Leigh Motor Boat Club having been re- launched recently. Her owner has spent around a decade rebuilding the vessel. I look forward to seeing her rigged and out sailing … I have an abiding memory of her out one Boxing Day flying a huge union flag from her sprit end whilst I was out with my mate… Wonderful.

Tiny Mite… She’ll be a picture with her masts and stays set up…

I received this information from Nick Hann today (Sunday 5th)…

Hi Nick,

Good to see you last week. I read your blog – v good.

Now I’ll fill you in!

Calluna was launched at Benfleet in 1996 – the previous owner lives in Bristol. She is a Peter Nicolls design

Calluna was launched at Benfleet in 1996 – the previous owner lives in Bristol. She is a Peter Nicolls design (so I understand) and the previous owner purchased the bare hull and fitted her out himself and I reckon he made a jolly good job of it, especially down below and with aft captains cabin makes her very comfortable.

It came about by accident in many respects. I’d arranged to take a friend for a sail some time ago, however he dropped out for personal reasons so the mate was back in her rostered place… The trip planned was for a visit to Conyer to enjoy the wonderful wares on offer at the Ship – a place my pal hadn’t been to.

The Pioneer was seen sailing sedately up the London River…

It seemed that it would be nice to have company so my mate suggested putting out a note to local Finesse owners … there were several responses and murmurs of, “… great, I’ll be there…” Ultimately two boats, both from the south Essex shoreline, made the passage. The forecast was good, it being right smack in the middle of a settled spell which seems to have encompassed the whole of September up ’til now in this balmy quarter of England. Highs down here always seem to give some days of ‘grey’ and we had a bit of early greyness which cleared to sunny and some late summer warmth as the afternoon settled in – just the job!

Whimbrel made an excelent passage, alone, across the Thames to Queenborough: the other boat, Mariette, was leaving a little later from her mooring up near the Benfleet barrier. We cut across the running tide, rippling and glistening in the late summer sunshine. It looked full of life, vitality and purpose as Whimbrel shouldered through it towards ‘our’ friendly Medway.

We moored short of the pontoon a few minutes after high water … a quick passage … Max, the harbour boatman, was soon on our case for ‘his’ fee – but he’s a nice, friendly chap!

Mariette, a fine lady, cruises sedately into the West Swale…

Mariette came tramping in some while later having caught the full whack of the Medway’s out going ebb. She came past us under full sail, her speed reducing as the wind was lost with her grinning skipper (mate and crew rolled into one) beaming at us … after tidying up Dick had a little work to do – essential emails, he said. Later he came across in his tender for a small libation and nibbles.

Dick doing foredeck duty … he was mate, cook and bottle washer too!

Supper was had at the Queenborough Yacht Club where good honest fare can be enjoyed at a fair price. The members there are always welcoming – the first essential is to get yourself a beer … then sign in! I had a convivial natter with the club’s commodore, an amiable chap – a real river man: he’d worked it on motor barges and tugs…

It was agreed that we would depart at 0900 on Saturday morning … this was made promptly: Mariette made moves in good time – Dick’s no slouch! My mate sailed us off the mooring under our headsail, rounding up to allow me to hoist our main – slick – and we waited a little while Dick hoisted Mariette’s gaff mainsail – he needed his crew!

Sailing down from Long Point in perfect conditions …

Sailing round the West Swale when the wind in the confines of the land is comfortable is one of life’s pleasures. The boat moves crisply with purpose across flat water. Down east, when a west or east wind is blowing a particularly short steep chop can build up making life interesting and wet! But we didn’t have any of that at a little after low water…

My mate, for once, being sensible infront of the lens…!

The bridge held us up for what I would call a considerable time … both boats sailed up and down, round and past a modern grp vessel with all sails zipped up. Her skipper didn’t seem to be amused: a wave and a smile barely elicited a response…!

And we were followed by Mariette … the other boat shot through between us without a single ounce of friendliness!

Now, it transpired that Dick had not sailed much in the Swale of late for his other boat is 48 feet of grp. His ownership of Mariette is extending his ditch-crawling into areas that he once knew as a child aboard one or other of his father’s craft – most of his memories rest with his father’s Sea King cruiser the family owned – Dick himself had one in his younger days too … he’s gone ‘upmarket’ with a Finesse, surely! Later Dick admitted that it was forty years since he’d last sailed into Conyer, then a different place by far – he was staggered by Swale marina, remembering a shed at a delapidated wharf and only a rickety mooring by the pub at the outer end of Lime Dock…

Anyway, the Swale was quite shallow at low water and the useable width for tacking was insufficient, so at first with a wind that was more of an easterly in that patch we had to motor sail … but this lasted only to around the approach to No. 6 buoy, where jibs were set and we had a duel with the fresh flood … we both won, of course!

Now there is something nice about sailing through this stretch with the banks all showing … the sight of feeding waders can be enjoyed … grebes and cormarants fishing for whatever takes their fancy … and seals too can be seen. We saw one and I expect many more saw us! The alternating light caused by the passage of scattered cloud over the sun kept brushing the sea scape in differing shades. It has a special beauty – a place we love.

Mariette coming into Conyer Creek.

Mariette was taking a little more time to make her boards (no centre plate) and we sailed on towards the Harty shore before running back under jib to canter up the South Deep together … we moored and Mariette came alongside to await the tide … it wasn’t long.

The wind was easterly … ideal for a potter up under jib. But we didn’t: as said Dick hadn’t been this way for years and I felt responsible!! The sky had virtually shed its powder puffs and he shone down as we motored in line up the creek whilst a stream of craft came out. It was idylic. Conyer is idylic…

Some Finesse friends came over from Faversham to say hello … another boat was to have joined us, but couldn’t – shame!

Sunday called for an early start: we departed at 0515… By the time dawn was nearly up we were sailing in a line westwards towards Elmley. My mate put the bacon on … oh yes, the waft of bacon aroama really sets hunger pangs singing. They were comfortably sent packing! Oh yes, that bridge kept us gilling around for another 40 minutes … no trains passed over until just before our lift…

This kinds of captures it … for some reason the camera aperture was delayed and Mariette moved on… It was one of those mornings…

The wind had risen a notch as the morning progressed too and I said to the mate, “As we round Long Point I’ll put a reef in the main…” She looked at me and frowned, before relaxing again! I’m glad we did: we were outsailing Mariette and this didn’t change under shortened sail with just the working jib. A period of tacking ensued to clear the Swale, then out of the Medway’s entrance far enough east to tramp over the Thames … Ah yes.

Hello… Dick was ‘between stay and buoy’ coming out of the entrance.

Mariette bares her bottom to the Thames…

All in all it was a good sail, a little spray flew at times and we bashed into a few rollers along the edge of the deep water channel. Off the pier a few small wavelets slapped under our bottom – these showered as much spray as the ‘deeps’ – typical: a welcome to home waters…

And we saw this on the pier end… A beautiful replica of an 18th Century Russian warship… We dipped our ensign, but the crew missed it!

Underway again… Grand!

After leaving the comfortable confines of Limehouse Basin we pottered up river to turn below Tower Bridge – a kind of rite of passage. Sail was set as we approached Limehouse Reach sail was set and we were off, homeward bound with a planned stop at Greenhithe for our penultimate evening away.

The Dar Mlodziezy.

Reaching Greenwich, apart from the carbuncle up on the land, we saw a real sailing ship moored out n the river, clearly an early arrival… She was the Polish beauty Dar Mlodziezy. Apart from short periods we seemed to be tacking down and round all the reaches … it’s the way the cookie crumbles – the mate hadn’t even mentioned the engine!

The engine had a brief run as we transited the flood barrier and upon exiting a whole mass of vessels were seen down in Woolwich Bight.

Group of tall ships alongside Woolwich Pier…

The Oosterchelte – a particular beauty…

It then went quiet – no rushing twin hulled water taxis and few coasters and tugs to disturb our sailing serenity…

Approaching the QE2 bridge a sail, well a mass of creamy canvas, was seen … this was the first of a parade that is still going on as I bash my keys swinging to a buoy off Greenhithe’s town hard… As I speak the Sea Cadet training ship has sailed under the bridge followed by two ‘smack’ types, big gaff cutters anyway!

The Gulden Leeuw, wow what a ship…

The Tenacious, pity they’d furled sails…

The Pelican of London…

A Fifer on the London River…

The Starvos S Niarchos

Two further vessels …

The Lady of Avenel – which as east coasters know is based in Maldon.

A couple of the smaller ‘tall’ ships…

Well that’s all I’m uploading … there were many more and a three-master has just motored under the bridge … following several gaffers.

What a fantastic place Limehouse Basin is. I haven’t berthed here before and we have been very pleased. It is friendly. Staff are supremely helpful and all ones needs are met in the locale. I can remember the basin with a few old ‘manky’ craft within many years ago. It has been transformed, as has the whole area. Pleasant looking flats, tasteful dock building conversions and areas of green space… Well done to Limehouse!

We arrived following a night at the Greenwich Yacht Club, another friendly waterside stopping point, but alas the club itself wasn’t open for refreshments that evening. The one down point about Greenwich is the wash and rise/fall of water as the fast twin hulled ‘clipper’ ferries rush by… We slept late on our first quiet morning!

Sailing up Barking Creek…

On the way up from Erith we sailed up into Barking Creek stopping at the bridge, which only has around five metres clearance, while a coffee was enjoyed … and await more water for boat to completely swing to her anchor. We motored clear of the creek.

A stately creek heron…

Approaching the Thames Barrier.

Once back out into the Thames highway, sails were again set … we ran upriver, chased by a spritsail barge which later turned out to be the Lady Daphne … we went through ‘our opening a little before they did theirs. A friend of mine took a cracking set of pictures of Whimbrel going through … our engine was running and prop was engaged!

Barges seemed to be everywhere on the short sail up to Limehouse from the GYC – a certain amount of tacking was needed: the river is horseshoe shaped, but as the mate said,”…could have put the engine on…” and waste fuel?

“Not likely…!”

The Ardwina near to Limehouse Dock … we chased round ‘onto’ her quarter giving the skipper a ‘fright’ we think!

The other day we pottered down with the last of the ebb and anchored off Higham Flats … I promptly abandoned the mate, to an anchor watch, while I went ‘ashore’ for an amble across the mud flats – hard clay mostly – to look at two old spritties that have lurked here for a half century or so… These are the Marianna and the Coombdale. The latter was a big boomie barge – that is she had a gaff main and mizzen.

The Marianna and the Coombdale on Higham Flats.

The lettering on the Coomdale’s transom was still evident for the last part of her name … tar was still attached to planking, especially at mud level where it appeared recent scouring has taken place…

Returning to base we sailed further back down river and poked into Cliffe Creek. We have walked the area and know it is essentially dished and free of debris. The tide was below the ‘flats’ making life decidedly easier … that was until we reached a point where I said, “enough…” much to my mate’s relief. Turning took some time: grounding the bow to use tide to do the work in the confined width then resulted in a short wait …

Sailing up Cliffe Creek early on the tide…

On the way in we’d passed the remains of a little barge resting sleepily in the cord grass along the western edge of the creek near the old brick and cement workings. Only one side was in view and what looked like one of her horses still crossed her deck… I haven’t my Sailing Barge Compendium with me, so a friend confirmed the vessel as an unregistered river barge, the Little George, abandoned to her long lingering death many moons ago.

Leaving the creek we sailed up to Grays and borrowed a mooring of the Thurrock Yacht Club. The next day, wet and dreary, was voted to be a rest day – we stayed put, apart from fetching water from the club!

Departing Grays, we sailed, under jib, across the river to fetch up in the shallows outside a little creek that wends its way a short distance into Swanscombe marshes – a place that is due to be an amusement park if the planners get their way… I then pottered off in the dinghy to investigate … the mate chose not to accompany me: it was by then drizzling somewhat!

Entering the creek…

Inside the creek…

The inside of the creek is shallow and muddy – in fact it appears to be a creek that is on the verge of death. Many craft are completely enveloped in reeds. A ‘Dutchman’ rests as if awaiting a refit, yet is clearly in a waterlogged state. Old fishing vessels are seeing out the last of there days. Amongst them I found several vessels in a sailing state … aboard one, a man called out, “You alright mate…?” He seemed a bit nonplussed about my pottering and thought I was in trouble having seen us sail up and anchor earlier!

Clearing out I returned. I’d only been away around forty minutes, short by my standards, an caught the mate out: I was almost aboard before she realised!

It didn’t take long to raise anchor and set sail … wafting past Greenhithe, a place to stop off at on the way back next week. Soon the Queen Elizabeth II bridge was looming above us and Crayfordness beyond loomed in the murk.

The QE2 bridge…

The mate had been on the helm since up anchoring so I heated soup on the stove and we munched on olive bread and sipped the hot brew as the bridge passed by … our passage ended at Erith, on a borrowed mooring off the club. This club, unlike the one we stopped by the previous day, was a hive of activity with many youngsters enjoying cadet week, we assumed. The thrills and spills that ensued was greeted by much mirth: it carried on the breeze as I watched, enjoying a pot of tea and a hunk of cake…

Two shots of Erith’s cadets enjoying the conditions…

My last comment: after two dreary days, some sunshine would be great, but as we stood wearing our oilies today the mate said, “… only the second time this summer…”

Clearly been spoilt by the weather during July and earlier this month… Ah well!