After my piece about the spritsail barge Dawn and her tiller steering, I received a communication from Gerard Swift, a key member of the trust caring for the barge. He kindly offered to talk me through what the trust were doing and to look at the tiller itself.

Previous blog: http://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-visits-maldon-to-see-dawn/

Today I went back to Maldon…

Currently the barge is berthed at the Hythe, however, she has been assigned what is known as the Grid Iron berth astern of the barge blocks adjacent to ‘Cooks’ yard. This will be her new home base when not away sailing.

Dawn with the Kitty outside of her at Maldon.

The Dawn was the last full sized spritsail barge to be built with tiller steering, and considering that when she was built in 1897, wheel steering had become the common form used for some twenty years or so. It had always been Gordon Swift’s dream to return the barge to as built. He wanted to remove her engine too… (Gordon was Gerard’s father and was the man that rescued Dawn from Heybridge Basin in mid 1960s.).

So, finding it difficult in todays charter market, the trust revisited its aims (other than keeping her sailing) to find a role in which good use could be made of her. The key now is heritage. As a heritage vessel she needs in all outward looks, to look the part.

Looking down Dawn’s deck. Note there are no skylights to ‘despoil’ the working look…

The next stage is to remove her steel spars and replace with wood. Some Oregon pine may well be called upon here… The engines for she has a pair with shafts under each quarter, as Gerard says are likely to stay: once fitted the MCA may not wish them to be removed under the rules governing these vessels. Gerard would dearly like the engines removed though… The rig, when altered, will not have such a huge area as at present – her typical ‘stackie’ high aspect sprit will be reinstated too.

Top of a ‘standard’ brail winch – this one is aboard the George Smeed.

Around the decks the coasting barge brail winch will be removed and a normal type fitted.

Down in the main hold – she is ‘swept’ from forward to aft bulkhead.

With the above decks changes, the fo’c’sle is to be returned to standard barge fit: it currently serves as the galley… In the aft cabin, one bunk (The mate’s) was not refitted upon rebuild: half the area is given over to a chart table and instruments … this will have to stay! Gerard said that lights and other items such as knobs and locks will be returned to ‘Victorian’ items that were standard in the 1890s…

The tiller…

The rudder was made and fitted to the barge around 30 years ago. The alterations were carried out by the boat/barge yard at St Osyths, where the engineless flyer EDME is based and owned.

The mizzen mast will be stepped on the top of the blade aft of the rudder shaft. The steelwork is currently being manufactured.

The tiller design came from old photographs and, fortunately, the tiller that came out of the Eva Annie, of 1878. The remains of this vessel sit off the Billet PH at Leigh-on-Sea. The tiller is in a museum in Gravesend, Kent… One of the things that has proved difficult to picture is where a restraining bar to keep tiller and rudder together was fitted. Currently it is atop, but is being refitted on underside.

Carving in memory of Gordon Swift…

A lovely touch has been carried out by the tiller’s craftsmen too: the initials of Gerard’s father have been carved on the upper face at the rudder end… I thought this was wonderful. Gerard, I’m sure, had a hand in this.

Currently the barge is coated in a muted scheme to reflect a period of mourning for Gordon’s sad loss this year. This is quite traditional. My mother told me that she found that the May Flower’s quarter boards (white – usually – upper section of aft rail) had once been painted a dark blue – this denoted the death of an owner, when, she was never able to ascertain. It may have been Clement Parker of Bradwell, a long time owner.

The Dawn Trust can be found here: http://www.dawn1897.com/

I wish them well…

On a visit to my good ship, currently being worked on over in Faversham, I spotted one of Alan’s staff, Alison, working away during her lunch break… She was adding a plank or two to what looked like a large model of a sailing fishing craft of the late 1800s.

Alison by her model…

In very short time Alison soon explained all … the ‘model’ is a cradle for her sister’s expected new arrival…

Looking down on the boat’s upturned hull it clearly becomes obvious that this is not a ‘boat’… The beam is half her length – not a boat standard, unless you stray into modern cat hulls, etc.

Construction is in the modern screw and glue method (Same as the Barrow Boats – remember them?) with the fastenings being removed and filled. Alison has used ply planking. The keel is laminated… The care and attention to detail given is an ethos for what goes on in Alan’s yard – it is to be commended.

Bow view…

Close up of the little boat’s hull… The rockers were placed for my benefit. They will be glued, prior to completion.

Alison told me that the hull is partly derived from the beach type craft that once predominated, especially along the channel coast. It is an own design … maybe here lies a diversion for her future career?

If interested: contact Alison at Alan Staley’s Yard, Chambers Wharf, Faversham… Not sure if she’ll thank me for this!

I’d have loved one for our boy… So would my mate!

Oh yes, I went to see Dawn, the sweet little stackie barge that is, currently berthed in Maldon…

Actually I went to see the ladies in the Salty Dogs Christmas Shop to sign a clutch of books: customers have been asking for it. At the same time I needed to visit the chandlers near the Hythe, being a Friday I treated the mate to a lunch at a very nice cafe in Wenlock Way – lovely.

The Dawn has been fitted with a tiller to her rudder head. The mizzen will be stepped onto the rudder once a step and iron work are fitted. The spar was usually stepped to one side, but it may be set on top of the blade … all will become apparent when done.

Two views of Dawn’s new tiller. It looks as if the old rudder (only a few years old…) has been reshaped with new cheeks added. Her name is carved in the squared sides towards the rudder head… Very sweet.

I’m not sure why the Dawn Trust want to return the barge to as built, well it isn’t: she’s far more sheer than then, as if she is permanently loaded – that is my view… I find this project a little like the preservation of old buildings fixed in a moment in time from whatever age by the likes of the National Trust. And too the way buildings are forbidden changes … they evolved and should continue to evolve. However, I like the look!

For an up-date to this see: http://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-goes-on-board-the-spritsail-barge-dawn/

Den Phillips and her merry crew – a handful of hard working ladies – have managed to ‘build’ a fine shop again for the festive period.

It is situated in Maldon, down the high street fairly close to the town car park by Wenlock Way.

Address: 103, High Street, CM9 5EP.

It is full of fascinating local art and craft goods. There is a good selection of books from around the east coast, mine included. They have the last of the available copies of Mudlarking… Available too from Amberley as an e-book.

Yesterday’s invitation…

I went along yesterday at Den’s request: a customer wanted a book signed…

Interestingly, I met a past Finesse 24 owner too – he’d had Mackerel Sky many moons ago – he doesn’t sail now, it seems, and has turned his talents to art, painting ‘after’ Vic Ellis. He has a number of pictures on dispalay for sale.

Inside Salty Dogs…

Den’s fantastic east coast calendar is as beuatiful as ever – ours is now waiting to be hung on New Year’s Eve, can’t wait!

The shop is open until the 31st January – beetle along if in the area: it’s worth a browse…

The rotting hull of the Cornish Fruit Schooner, Rhoda Mary, has sat on the edge of a Hoo beach for well over 70 years. She was built in Restronguet Creek, Falmouth in 1868, and came up to the Medway for conversion into a ‘yacht’ and like many of those projects it failed to materialise. When a boy, with my siblings, she provided a bit of a play ground!

My parents visited the vessel’s remains in 1951 during their honeymoon cruise aboard their spritsail barge May Flower. Several pictures appear to have been taken…

One of the ship’s anchors was ‘rescued’ by my father and it became one of the May Flower’s mooring points at Whitewall Creek, Twinney and then at Callows Wharf, Upchurch. I don’t doubt it is still sitting in the mud beyond the wharf where a house barge now rests.

Much to my surprise a communication winged its way to me from the Medway & Swale Boating Association asking me for comment about the good ship’s restoration proposals. Apparently a Cornish organisation is intending to dig her out, float her onto a barge and take her home for a rebuild… Never say die, they always say in the barging and smack world … but this is a much larger undertaking.

I found a web site discussing this vessel and others, see:

http://www.frickers.co.uk/art/blog/2007/05/08/the-story-behind-rhoda-mary-and-katie-cluett-a-dispute-settled/

The hull of the Rhoda Mary as seen in October 1951.

Her digging out and floating is planned for the spring of 2015, so, if successful, she’ll no longer be the ‘wonder’ she has been to all those that have passed her by!

This is something I have been dreading (my family say) since it was first mooted. It has been on the cards for a little while: this summer we found that two of Whimbrel’s keel bolts either side of the centre plate box had very minor weeps … bubbles of ferous oxide. It first came to light when some intimate items belonging to the mate were found with ‘iron’ stains on them … now knowing she is but flesh and blood, I looked where I feared!

How the ‘intimates’ ended up on the floor, we’ll not discuss … but clearly what we had to do was discuss the problem…

Making a summer return to one of our favourite ports of call, Faversham, leaving out the little matter of the mate’s spoilt smalls, we asked Alan Staley, an esteemed shipwright, mast maker and boat builder to come and take a look…

The main problem was this: on one side of the centre plate casing, two bolts had their capping wooden plugs partly under the casing side – clearly not a job for me, even though I have replaced several bolts during the past decade.

Alan, after rubbing his chin, looked at the pair of us (me and the mate that is) and said, “… be no problem for us … but when would you like me to do it?” Before either of us could answer, he added with a grin, “knowing you keep the boat in use…”

The mate, surely being flippant, said, firmly, “Yesterday…!”

Well, all of that was several months away now and the time came for Whimbrel’s delivery to Alan’s yard.

I’d booked a crew to take the mate’s place: she was to drive over to Faversham in the car for loading gear and bodies into for the return to Essex. This last Sunday had been planned as departure day … we didn’t go, opting for Monday and Tuesday – Good Decision: we enjoyed glorious weather on Monday with yesterday being grey, dry with a little thin sunshine.

The mate saw us off, her face puckering as I pulled away from the boat’s berth…

The wind was light, supposedly from the north-west, but it seemed more southerly as we carved a diagonal course across to the Medway via the Grain Flats  – my crew commented on never seeing that shore from such a close point! Entering the Medway with the flood still with us we hit 7 knots. Medway

VTS warbled about a ship heading up past ‘the wreck’ bound for Ridham Dock, which is just past the bridge, with an ETA of around 1325. Could we make it? We hit the jackpot because we kept the onward rush and hit the change of tide, keeping the eastward flow that occurs from Long Point during the early ebb. We reached the bridge with the ship … and followed through hard on her heels. Another ship was waiting for her to pass through and clear the channel, so we actually had plenty of time.

In close company … we saved an hour here!

Reaching Elmley Ferry, a soft northerly breeze was felt as it ruffled the water around us. All about us the water seemed to be coated in Brents and shellduck. Along the edge of Elmley Hill there were a throng of oystercatchers awaiting the uncovering of their favoured feeding ground of shell, stone and seaweed that covers the shallows along the shore.

Oystercatchers galore…

Up went the sails. Our speed dropped to a more sedate 4 knots, falling again to a little more than the tide’s ebb speed by the time the scrubbing Dock at Uplees was approaching. The engine was kicked back into life … we wanted to clear the wreck of a trawler that has sunk (and not yet been lifted) immediately to the east of the little trot of moorings here.

Gently through the Swale…

A Medway Ports notice to mariners covers this wreck, but, it appears to sit inside the two yellow wreck buoys marking it. Another yellow bouy is attached to one of the ship’s masts and a withie on the other. BEWARE!!

A vacant buoy was found amongst the myriad of moorings along the Harty Ferry (Oare) shore.

We were blessed with a glorious sunset. The glassy surface took on the profusion of colours in the sky. It was majestic. Along tide line a heron strutted, fishing for supper… Below, the Blakes stove was warming the cabin, in time, sufficiently enough for comfort. We retreated below and tea was taken…

Sunset … then tea was served.

The mate had sent us off with a trial batch of ‘festive’ scones. These contained, cinnamon, nutmeg and chopped ginger with some of the syrup… “Yummy” my crew said, grinning – this was really a mid week treat, for both.

Later the crew was treated to one of Whimbrel’s classic dishes. Chicken cooked in cider, onions, a little garlic and a few carrots. I’d remembered the bay leaf too… As the succulent scents assailed our nostrils we enjoyed a sherry and some mashed sardines in a tangy tomato sauce on biscuits – ah yes, we certainly lived well. The sauce, of our main dish, thickened a little, was heavenly…

An easterly was forecasted, bt we enjoyed a very quiet night, a night in a thousand, perhaps… It was a little chilly out, freezing ashore we heard later, but so dark and the sky was star filled.

A late breakfast, at around 0930 was enjoyed, and after clearing away a sail was decided upon whilst awaiting the tide to toddle up to Faversham… We tacked positively against a growing easterly and the flood tide, out past the Receptive Buoy and further towards Sand End, turning a mile or so past the creek’s spit – to which we soon raced back to. I was handed the tiller, though almost hard on the wind the girl was really sailing herself!

Reaching up the creek – just before the troublesome section…

My crew had only once before entered the creek, motoring some way up and anchoring for tea before making an escape… Sailing in was something new! The engine was needed, however, to help lift us round the confounded undulating east/west leg though. Then the mainsail was stowed and we continued onwards under jib alone, the wind lessening but still ruffling the autumn tinted grasses along the edges… It was along this leg, before the seawage works, a hail came across the saltings from walkers on the wall – a fellow Finesse 24 owner, Grebe, Faversham based. Earlier I’d had a text from Josie’s crew – out walking the dog. Josie (F24, sail number 63) is ‘our’ immediate sister!

The crew watching from a good vantage point…

We reached along past Iron Wharf, where all sail was dispensed with … turning the boat by nosing the bank we were soon in the gloop at the entrance to Alan’s hole.

The mate was there to greet us. Bless her!

An hour after arrival, Whimbrel was high and dry upon the Staley trolley!

Whimbrel on her way out…

The mast was due to come off today and she would be run into the shed. Yesterday I said to one of Alan’s staff, a lady, “This is the first time the boat has been back to a yard since she was launched by Alan Platt nearly 32 years ago…” There were several ‘gob-smacked’ faces around! The lady’s family once owned La Finesse, a Finesse 24, for a number of years – so she and Alan know the boats. Incidentally, La Finesse went to Pembrokeshire and was renamed Enfys…

High and Dry and stripped of her sails!

Oh yes, I added, “You’re not keeping her for long…” I plan to sail her home in February…

My thanks must be added to Richard, the crew, who loved the trip and is so looking forward to the return in February…

The Medway & Swale Boating Association (MSBA) is holding its second bi-annual conference at the St George’s Centre (Old dockyard church) in Chatham Maritime on the 7th March 2015. See link for details and booking arrangements…

http://msba.org.uk/?ai1ec_event=medwayswale-boating-conference#comment-102546

St George’s Centre (Old dockyard church) in Chatham.

This is the second conference under the reorganised Medway/Swale interest grouping. The organisation took over from the Medway Boating Association. Port authorities, local government, clubs and other interest groups are affiliated. The first conference, I understand, was a great success…

As the evening closes in … a little tender caught the last of the air…

Today I was sailing up Hadleigh Ray, after a cracking tack east to the Crowstone from my Island YC mooring, when I was seemingly bombarded by dancing balerinas zipping up and over me… It was amazing.

See: https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=306441819566092&set=pcb.306443319565942&type=1&theater

I’d departed at a few minutes past nine. It was grey and a little forbidding, but forecast spoke of brightening skies and a little sunshine. It was bang on, for after an hour, the sun came peeking through. When that happens the world looks so different!

After tacking eastwards before getting a good reach in towards the Crowstone, during which I stood in the companionwy while the girl frolicked along on her own, I ran west along the shore to Bell Wharf, Leigh-on-Sea. On the way it was pleasing to see two school parties out on the shore, exploring and playing, and it’s late November! A group of men working on the ‘cinder’ path stopped work too and I chuckled as I saw them taking pictures…

Following that, I sailed at a pleasing rate out to the Ray Channel again, before running up between Two Tree Island and the Canvey Marshes. It was here that I was set upon by the diving, swerving and twisting flocks of waders!

The waterway is nearly clear of moored craft now, a lonely feeling, in many ways, but giving a seemingly open feel to even a fairly restricted stretch of water. I sailed up to by the old Salvation Army Wharf before turning and tacking out to beyond Canvey Point, where the mainsail was stowed. The boat and I then jogged back home under the jib, elation running through us…

Just off the berth were a clutch of Brent … as I luffed cross the ebb into my mooring they casually paddled into the saltings, seemingly, with out a care in the world. Well, apart from food, of course.

Grand!

I had to go to Maldon today to drop some items off to another person … it being Remembrance Sunday we were not likely to skip our Sunday service… So a walk round to Heybridge via the sea wall and back along the canal was planned after the ‘job’ was done.

Passing the Down’s Road Boat Yard my eyes fell on the sad hull of a carvel sloop sitting close to the road … Yes, I know, she’s been there some while, but it seemed so sad looking in the light of an improving day, with a hazy sun becoming sharper and spring-like… The poor thing reminded me of other craft I looked at during the summer around the rivers – another article, perhaps… Green growths seem to be dripping down her hull, a hull devoid of much of its last coat of paint. Seams gawped, open to the breeze and work of warm wet fresh water… Her days, surely, unless rescued, are numbered. But, as a yard owner told me once – “…as long as the rent is paid…” Money for old rope!

Passing the ‘barge’ yard up by the Fulbridge, I noticed that the Lady Jean, the big wooden barge that has been loitering up there for sale for quite sometime, appears to have had a fair amount of fresh paintwork done. My mate asked me if she’d been sold … I don’t actually know, but has she?

Crossing the bridge I found it impossible to reach the other side: the flooding tide was edged with a rash of sharp maritime reflections. A fair collection of craft seem to be berthed up here these days, reminiscent of past times!

They cast down their reflections upon the glassy sea…

Turning off the Maldon – Heybridge Causeway we struck out along the old sea wall that once kept the River Blackwater at bay … Heybridge Creek as most know it … before reaching the dam keeping all those Sunday lunches being enjoyed, dry. Here the tide was well into the saltings, a beautiful sight indeed. There is just something about those waving saline tolerant plants keeping their heads (largely) above water. The way they gently move under the influence of tide or the light breeze…

Ah yes, I wished it had been me… Down the sun I spied a sweet little lug-sail dinghy.

The path became wet and muddy. We p[assed some folks clearly ill-dressed for the terrain! Nearing Herring Point a barge’s topsail was spied … “Cygnet” I said, answering a question from the mate, It was too. But what caught my eye was a little sloop up in the saltings, nose ito the sea wall. A ‘MG’ designed Eventide type suffered the same fate some years ago and she still sits along the river edge, now minus her gear, her hull split by tide and time. This poor thing though is of GRP and unless she is got off only vandalism will ‘cut her down’. Oh well…

Poor little thing…

At Herring Point a bench has been conveniently placed by a good thinking soul, bless them, and a stop for our picnic lunch was made. Here I couldn’t resist clicking away on my camera … it had to be done, of course, as the little Cygnet carried her way round the point. Whereupon, Des, her intrepid skipper ran up the staysail for the leg in towards the esplanade…

Cygnet carrying her way round Herring Point … with the Decima in the background.

Up staysail…

Des back at the helm… Well nearly!

Lunch over (we nearly lost it all to a very disobedient dog…), we made our way to the Jolly Sailor for coffee and loo stop!

The walk back along the canal was blissful: the sun shone, coats were shed and I muttered something about being on the water, but, on reflection, I appreciated the moment of togetherness as we strolled: it was better, by far!

The Medway and Swale Boating Association reports that Peel Ports the operators of Medway ports are about to hold a series of ‘meet the public sessions’ at various venues on the Isle of Sheppey to discuss their long term plans and obtain feedback and gain views from those interested. Peel Ports planned events can be viewed: http://peelports.com/sheerness-master-plan

The meetings/exhibitions take place between the 13th and 15th of November.

Of interest to us yachting folk is the fact that a marina is part of the operators current thinking – how will this impinge on the Queenborough Harbour Trust … is a thought that runs through my mind!

Medway Swale Boating Association: http://msba.org.uk/