Knowing we were going to be in South Devon over our Forty-fourth wedding anniversary on a ‘no boats’ holiday, I kept a little something up my sleeve…
Although we did travel across the pretty harbour on a ferry – for a trip on the Dart Valley Steam Railway, I saved it until last.
On the day planned for a scenic trip up the Dart Valley to Totnes with winding narrow lanes set deep into the land, I said, as we twisted past the head of Mill Creek, ‘We’re just popping along here…’ pointing to my right.
After the expected question, I added, ‘… the Snark is here…’ I saw a ‘look’ in the corner of my eye as I navigated another sharp bend.
We parked up in the yard alongside the creek with steep sided wooded slopes towering over us. Saying I wouldn’t be long, ‘Have fun, Snark Hunter..’ drifted from the closing door. I was met by the yard owner who had clearly witnessed our arrival.
As soon as I mentioned my quest, he grinned and took me to meet the owner, Paul Jenkins. I was welcomed aboard by Paul, but his partner wasn’t aboard at the time.
I first met Paul at the yard in Chatham where the Snark had originally been constructed from modules. The barge had originally been built at Walton-on-the-Naze some years ago. She ultimately was used for the barge on the beach for the film ‘Intonement’ from the book by Ian McEwan, of same name. The hull units were purchased by Paul who had them transported to Chatham where the hull was reconstructed with much rewelding. She was shortened too.
See: http://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-visits-the-snark/
The Snark is an almost full sized spritsail barge, but is in fact a barge yacht and fits into the yacht category at maximum length of just under 24 metres. So, unlike a traditional Thames barge, she can go anywhere with the limitations of maximum of twelve passengers…
The Snark’s owners have plans this summer for a circumnavigation of Great Britain with a visit to Belfast in Northern Island. I picked up on this some time ago after seeing a post on a Barge blog site.
Berths are still available for most legs of the passage.
See her web site: https://www.snark.limited/uksailingholidays
It struck me that Paul’s Medway & Thames passage mirrors the passage in my book, Rochester to Richmond A Thames Estuary Sailor’s View. Changes to the river scenes are vividly described…
Available from many, but see : https://www.bookharbour.com/rochester-to-richmond-a-thames-estuary-sailor-s-view
Also: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rochester-Richmond-Thames-Estuary-Sailors/dp/1781556202
Additional cabins were under construction when I went below. My understanding is that these are two berth units allowing couples privacy and own space.
Back aft, the barge yacht has made use of the chaffcutter wheel and steering mechanism found on her ex-trading sisters. The barge has a large mullie mizzen with a slightly smaller main being fitted.
Interestingly, the mast, although in a traditional looking mast case is not lowered by the usual means. It would either have to be lifted out or lowered using a crane, Paul told me. Apparently a new mast is being fitted in 2023.
Looking at the itinerary for the Snark’s summer cruise round Britain and Northern Ireland, I was greatly interested in the plans to sail through the Swale and through the lifting bridge on passage to Chatham. The date for the Swale passage looks likely to be Tuesday 14th June.
After that the Snark is due to reach Gravesend on the day before the Thames Barge Match which is on Saturday 18th June. From Gravesend she goes up to London for a change of guests at Limehouse.
After leaving Limehouse, she is due to be off Southend with plans to go through the inside passage at Havengore, enroute northwards…
‘Are you planning to race with your sisters…’ I cheekily asked Paul.
Paul told me that they wouldn’t be allowed – professional skipper and mainsheet man required – so his plans are to follow.
I suggested he should turn before the barges begin coming home to be in a position to witness the end.
We both agreed that it would be interesting to see how the Snark performed against her older sisters. I added that a visit to the Sea Change Sailing Trust’s Blue Mermaid should be of interest and a chat to Richard Titchener…
I reminded Paul of what I wrote in my book, The May Flower A Barging Childhood: Put simply – ultimately, the future of the vessel type will mean building new for it is surely the rig and how it is operated which is of greater importance than maintaining very old vessels. The Sea Change Sailing Trust has since built the Blue Mermaid. The river barge Defiance has also been built (shortened to fit the 24 m rule).
Against the above, ‘millions’ from both private and charitable means (lottery largely) has been spent rebuilding wooden vessels … most of which rely on charities to sustain them.
I’m not saying it is wrong to preserve an original, but…
