01/5/21

Ditch-crawler and mate welcome in 2021 with an expectant feeling for a far, far better year, with a twist…

2020 has been a traumatic year for many. The Covid-19 pandemic which has swept around the world from its starting base in far off mid China at the end of 2019, has caused economic and personal devastation.

In its wake, a huge number of people have been infected. Sadly, far too many have and continue to suffer the ultimate sacrifice. Many survivors have developed what the medical world have termed ‘Long-Covid’ – with largely respiratory problems.

We lost an immediate neighbour, leaving two teenage girls motherless. My own 89 year old mother suffered badly from Covid-syndrome and at the time of writing, a much loved 91 year old aunt is currently suffering from the infection – fighting it and showing signs of pulling through.

The ‘whys and wherefores’ of this whole appalling human tragedy will, eventually, be sussed out by the health body of the United Nations (WHO) with a view to what are the lessons should be learnt.

During the various levels of lockdown periods, we have walked for Essex this year – both of us wearing out our boots and requiring new ones!

On a day sail during glorious semi-lockdown weather, early last summer…

During the middle of last year, I wrote a blog ‘asking’ sailors to abide by rules about going away overnight during the then secondary lockdown. Sailing had been allowed as an exercise sport during the day, with a specific instruction to return home to main residence.

The result of this was for a ‘disgruntled’ sailor from the Benfleet Yacht Club issuing a threat – spread around the locality and wider Thames Estuary – to burn Whimbrel. Later, after a verbal attack, the affair became an active police matter.

See:

Tied in with this, ‘we’ had gone to the assistance of a Benfleet Yacht Club vessel which had gone aground. The crew were desperate for help.

After stowing sail and going back to them, we’d attempted to tow the boat clear of bank it was on using a tow line quickly made up with our best warps. We failed. The tow line (our warps) was inadvertently passed to the casualty by the Island YC work boat which had also come to give assistance.

Sadly, but a sign of the age we live in, neither we or the Island Yacht Club received any thanks, nor have the warps been returned, inflicting a cost to us.

See: https://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-enjoys-a-week-of-glorious-carnival-weather-finding-courtesy-and-cheerfulness/

Attempts by the Island Yacht Club to convene a meeting to discuss these matters with respective senior flag officers proved fruitless with a series of prevarications on the part of the Benfleet Yacht Club. Their attitude no longer surprises me…

And there, it will probably rest.

So, for me in particular and my mate too, we are hoping we can put all of this behind us and go forward into 2021 with renewed optimism for a much brighter sailing year. And, to be able to sail where we want without fear of threats of any sort: this marred our sailing hugely during the past year.

Sailing on New Year’s Eve in -1 to 0 deg C.

One much favoured area was not visited and another anchorage only twice – the second resulted in the mentioned ‘attack’ and it is something we would not wish to experience again.

One of the major pleasures we are looking forward to during 2021 is the ability to take afloat all the people who have regularly sailed aboard Whimbrel over the decades. It has most certainly been one of the ‘downers’ of this last year.

I am already geeing some of my crews up: although the Covid-19 situation is currently quite grim, life will return to near ‘normal’ as inoculation numbers increase.

On the first day of 2021, we made it afloat en-famile for the first time for a number of years. Our boy as a ‘live alone’ so is allowed to move within our bubble. The ‘boy’ didn’t get a sail aboard Whimbrel during 2020 for various reason, from not being available, home working requirements, not being allowed during earlier lockdowns and weather!

Shortly before the boat picked up our crew arrived, relegating us to lesser roles of deck hand and cabin girl!

It was a bit of a grey day, with a cold WNW blowing down the creek. The air temperature was around 2-3 deg C, not as cold as our last sail of year, the previous day!

Sail was set in timely fashion, shooting up-creek with the tide, turning the boat on her axis to run out.

Skipper & mate relegated to deckhand and cabin girl…

Waders swirled around the saltings and Brent dabbled amongst the cord grass stalks hunting for food. For once, both the mate and I had time to look around together…

Clearing the creek we ran east towards the area of the Crowstone in Chalkwell Bay.

Eventually, a tack was made in towards the shore. Passing close west of the ancient stone boundary marker of the Port of London, tacking away. People ashore seemed enlivened by our mast-head hamper: the Christmas Tree!

Further tacks were made with a long one out before heading in towards Leigh-on-Sea: I had booked a facetime call with my mother in her care home and wanted to be closer inshore for her.

During this time, the ‘cabin girl’ had set to and prepared tasty bacon and black pudding rolls. Yum!

Off Leigh-on-Sea’s Billet public house were turned round a Finesse 21, Penny and reached across the Leigh flats to the entrance of Smallgains Creek.

A few months ago this stretch of water was alive with Brent awaiting the tide to drop so they could feed on the carpets of eel grass that is a favoured delicacy. They were no where to be seen. We did however, spot a friendly seal which popped up for a look…

Finesse 21 Penny.
Reaching back across the Leigh flats.

By the time we reached our creek, all were feeling the cold. I warmed up dealing with sails, as did the mate when stowing the headsail. The boy was ‘sent’ away to get warm!

We both walked away from Whimbrel, glowing inside and outwardly. I had a grin beneath my wind reddened cheeks which I carried home, with more than a spring in my step…

That ‘glow’ was wiped from our hearts by the more than expectant broadcast from the Prime Minister on 4th January 2021 to the whole of the United Kingdoms, but specifically in detail to England. Another full lockdown has been announced.

As I get set to post this, the likelihood of sailing during the next couple of months looks grim: the rules are yet to be promulgated…

12/22/20

Ditch-crawler’s Covid-19 year of 2020 draws to a close…

For all boating people and ‘landlubbers’ alike, this past year will have been a testing time for most.

The year started with a perpetual round of high winds especially during the weeks when the tides were during daylight hours. The result was, for me and Christobel, was that Whimbrel only had a modicum of use up until lockdown.

Whimbrel had been hauled out and chocked up a week or so before lockdown and her bottom had been water slurry cleaned off back to wood. After a couple days drying, work commenced!

See: https://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-mate-give-whimbrels-bottom-a-clean-up/

Fortunately our club remained open and allowed members to quietly deal with maintenance, following distancing rules. Whilst doing job, we saw less people than when walking and certainly didn’t have any distancing problems with people walking straight at us and not moving aside … which has remained a problem throughout the Covid-19 pandemic.

‘What is it they don’t understand’!

Empty streets in London during a sailing visit during August.

As Christmas approached, my friend up in Daws Heath, a chap who used to grow trees for the festive period, dropped off a tree for Whimbrel’s mast. The chap has been doing this for nearly two decades now!

At that time, although most of Essex was in a level three lockdown (England) a UK wide relaxation for family visits was agreed over a five day window. Then, a new strain of Covid-19 was proved to be the reason behind a Southeast England rapid increase in infections … Wales and Scotland were seeing rises too.

There was a huge wailing and gnashing of teeth: Christmas was looking to be ‘cancelled’ and it was with Essex following other eastern and south eastern areas into a new Level 4.

Christmas though, cancelled? How can anyone cancel Christmas – eradicate Man, perhaps. People have forgotten what Christmas really is…

For Whimbrel’s crew, life will remain much as planned … although we’re unsure if our church will be open!

Tree on way to boat.

The tree was big enough to trim back the trunk for the hoisting stick. Trunk was a handy size too… This year, just for the hell of it, I purchased a set of battery operated lights to decorate the tree. These have a timed operating time of 6 hours in 24. So they were switched on around 1600, as dusk settled!

Tree hoisted.

Hoisting day was again forecasted to be fairly windy, but like on previous days the winds didn’t rise locally and certainly dropped off as the afternoon crept towards dusk. So, both unanimously elected for a sail…

Christobel hauling the jib…

We jogged out of the creek under jib, coming up to wind when clear to hoist the main. It was glorious. An almost clear blue sky sat above, with some clouds far away to the west probably beyond Gravesend.

Swirls of knot and dunlin swooped round the boat off Canvey Point. This is something always a joy to see. Whimbrel’s mate sat, entranced, a smile of pleasure radiating…

Away along the shallows, Brent geese were paddling around the dead stalks of cord grass ferreting for food, in between honking at one another in a language that can only be guessed at.

Merry Christmas!

We sailed east on a broad reach down the run of the ray Channel, the boat revelling in the thrust of the wind’s pressure and a wash wave curled away from the bow. It was comfortable, full sail breeze, and we were soon down to level with Chalkwell Beach.

A laser came up alongside…

Along the shore, a parade of people taking the air and exercise were seen. Out on the water a clutch of dinghies were skittering about, helms clad in dry suits to ward off the chill. One, a laser, came up off our starboard quarter and then lost the wind under our shadow. The helm, a lad, called, ‘I love your tree…’ I grinned.

Along the channel of the Thames, ships were on the move, some were large container vessels. We turned inshore, heading in towards Leigh-on-Sea.

Leigh-on-Sea basking in late afternoon winter sunshine.

Close into the shore, swimmers were seen ‘enjoying’ the water… Off Victoria Wharf, Whimbrel was tacked round for a fetch out to the Ray Channel again.

We were sailing towards the setting sun and I thought perhaps it was going to one of those cracking sunsets sometimes experienced, but, a low bank of cloud swallowed the sun and we saw barely a touch of colour.

On the leg back out to the Ray.
Bank of cloud about to ‘swallow’ the sun.

A couple of tacks took us in towards the entrance buoys marking Smallgains Creek.

Away to the south, marking the shallow swatch across east of the point marshes, a series of buoys laid by the Island Yacht Club were clear to see. A point buoy laid by Dauntless Yard a couple of years ago has been moved west to the position I myself placed the previous Point Buoy which went astray some years ago. The ground chain was still out there!

Also marked for the first time in many years is the remains of a steel vessel of unknown origin which sits on the flats a little to the south-southeast of the out creek markers. An isolated danger mark has been used here.

In bound…

Along the outer reach of Smallgains, the jib was stowed and then the main in a faltering evening breeze, far removed from the 4-5 on most forecasts.

Once berthed and sorted, I dropped the tree down towards deck to activate a set of lights strung around the tree’s branches!

Whimbrel’s lit tree for Christmas 2020.

As we walked away and looked back to survey our handiwork, I chuckled: up the creek another lit tree could be seen … ‘on a motor boat…’ my mate quipped, adding,’… not the same’!

It was a superb near two hour sail, which if it were to be the last of the year, it’ll surely be more greatly savoured for that…

12/7/20

Ditch-crawler digs out his father’s marina plans…

Back in September it was decided by me and my siblings that our dear mother had to go into a care home after a series of falls and a diagnosis of Covid Syndrome. This necessitated a home clearance job for us all, organised by our able sister who promptly disappeared off to the Ionian on a sailing holiday – a trip she and her crew had been having palpitations about all summer!

So, far from the sea on a prolonged visit to deepest Devizes, during many discussions on messenger our mother’s possessions were ‘split’ between us. I was ably assisted by my good mate in working through ‘sister’s job list’ … it also fell to my lot to ‘sign’ mother into her new home too…

While clearing a desk, I came across our father’s architectural thesis dated 1948. I ‘lifted’ this as something of interest to delve into later. It being about the area I sail in and moor Whimbrel.

Canvey Point from Whimbrel on a January 2020 early morning sail..

The thesis was a design proposal for a marina at the eastern end of Two Tree Island, incorporating the old channel (now silted) of the Ray up to the Two Tree Island Hard.

I found that an entrance lock was planned, facing east, leading into the Ray. The location would have been adjacent to the current position of Smallgains Creek, but of this, I shall add detail as I go…

Thesis cover.

For some years I had had my father’s rolls of old charts. One was marked up with an area of future development along the Leigh-on-Sea shore and showed how it had been a proposal to incorporate a chunk of South Benfleet and Hadleigh into a greater ‘Southend Conurbation’ – yikes!

In actual fact, ‘Southend’ own two chunks of woodland in Hadleigh – Hadleigh Great Wood and a neighbouring copse – a ‘present’ from a one time Southend mayor who lived at Solby’s House in Hadleigh.

1931 chart, with additions 1942, used to mark up area under discussion.

Interestingly, much of the very same area is currently being proposed as an inclusion into a new Southend West Parliamentary Constituency in part of a National realignment of boundaries, to reduce seats and rebalance constituent numbers. Less of that, but as I say, interesting…

The chart is a fascinating look back at the past. It shows the long tail of saltings running east from Canvey Island. This chart is similar to a chart from around c1850, I have. Yet, since then, the saltings at the island’s eastern end have rapidly eroded. I was measuring this denudation over a number of years a decade ago and found that around two to five metres were going each year.

That arm of saltings was stated to be a natural protection from prevailing south-westerlies. I think my father would be surprised to see the extent of there loss since his early 20’s. A little east of the marsh point, a shallow swatch now runs across – see picture below – which Whimbrel is sailed through regularly. It has been a western crossing of the Ray Bank for vessels for years now.

The long tail to Canvey’s eastern marsh has eroded away! A shingle and shell bank lies to the east of the swatch and catches the unwary regularly!

The thesis proposal was for a marina accessible at all states of the tide, I assume details of approach depths and so on. It had been something local yachtsmen (people) had aspired to for some decades. Historically, there had been a proposal for a marina in the bay at Chalkwell, some twenty years earlier during the late 1920s into the 1930s.

Two Tree Island was a very different place in those days – essentially a part tide flooded patch of marsh and agricultural grazing land. The border between Hadleigh and Leigh-on-Sea passed through its middle, as it still does. Leigh people like to think of the island as theirs, but it ain’t! The line was in essence the run of Mill Creek, which once flowed out of the valley on the north side of the high ground running up to Hadleigh Castle. The whole area was a ‘delta’ until solid reclamation on the mainland came with the railway in the 1840s.

Showing extent of land reclamation the then planning pipeline issues.

The thesis lays out the design background including local area plans that were current at the time…

The red area in plate above shows extent of land to be reclaimed! Yes, that was so, but also a large chunk of saltings and mud flats would have become the marina basin too.

One has to remember that the extent of the saltings running east from the eastern side of Two Tree Island was not as extensive as it is now. In fact for decades, barges had been extracting sand there.

Were Brent geese coming to the area in those days. I don’t know, but they surely would have done to a lesser extent. The ‘Thames’ was very polluted in that not so distant time.

‘Arial’ view of scheme…

It can be seen from the outline drawing that the bulk of the marina basin was planned for the south side of the island, with yards, stores, businesses over what was the ‘saltings’ edge.

Below is a view across the silted and saltmarsh infested remnants of a once open mud flat area of Leigh Creek. The view looks down towards Chalkwell, and, if you know the area, the Essex Yacht Club Ship can be seen. Seventy years ago those saltings did not exist and it was a haven for small craft and houseboats.

Current view across Leigh Creek (marshes) looking east from west of ‘Johnson’s Yard’ – Lower Thames Marina

My parents moored their sailing barge May Flower in the area adjacent to the (new) Leigh-on-Sea station below the old hard across to Two Tree Island during 1951/2. The barge beyond was the ‘little’ Emma, owned by the Stubbs family.

The spritsail barge May flower (my future home) moored in those ‘saltings’…

Below is a layout of the marina development and replacement buildings to house displaced businesses. The northern boundary line is roughly the line of the current road leading onto Two Tree Island. The two truncated triangular shaped areas were marked ‘future development’ and sit where the refuse recycling centre, putting green and works to west of station and to the east the current Lower Thames Marine yard, layup facility, cockle sheds along to Crooked Billet public house.

Outline plan.

An esplanade was planned by Southend Corporation (as was) to run to seaward of the station at Chalkwell along past Leigh-on-Sea and incorporating a road. This was included in my father’s thesis. So, in essence he was building on the local authority plan…

Part of thesis design statement…

A futuristic club house building was proposed – this from its size was likely to house more than one club: several would have been displaced. The Essex and the Leigh were historically one, but split at the turn into the 1900s.

Proposal for the clubhouse…

I would say that the design would have certainly put the area on the yachting map! It has overtones of the Art Deco building of the Royal Corinthian YC on the R. Crouch at Burnham.

Outline details of the clubhouse building
Proposals for the relocation of local waterfront yards and businesses.

Leigh-on-Sea at the time (1948) still had a fairly busy commercial waterfront. This was based around timber being shipped into the wharf where Mike’s Boatyard now sits, and the coal wharf which served the local gas works, essentially where the flyover comes over the C2C rail line.

Commercial wharfage was allowed for in the scheme, situated along the western wall of basin.

Theobalds (Timber) Wharf c1947 – now Mike’s Boatyard.
Looking along Leigh shore today – Peter Boat PH to cockle sheds. Note flyover, site of gasworks.

Amazingly, within my picture files, I have been able to mimic all the pictures taken by my father for use within his thesis. One, which I had to pop along to Leigh to get was a view looking over the eastern end of Two Tree Island. The hull of the spritsail barge Eva Annie is clearly visible to lhs of my father’s picture. Only her stem is essentially visible today.

I think my picture was taken a little to east of my father’s, however, the differences are clear with a growth of saltings where once there was mudflats covered by the tide suitable for sheltered moorings..

The building in the middle of the 1948 view is, I believe, the Billet PH.

View over eastern end of Two Tree Island from Belton Hills c1947.

With some use of imagination, the marina complex sits before your eyes…

View today from virtually same position.

During this autumn, Christobel and I sailed Whimbrel up into Leigh Creek, taking the route across the flats then joining the withy marked rill up towards the moorings and yard of the Leigh Motor boat Club which resides directly below the relatively recent bridge across to Two Tree Island. The extent of saltings that have built up in seventy years is stark.

Sailing into Leigh Creek (Autumn 2020).

East of Bell Wharf, the eastern most of the town’s wharves, the current shore rubs hard up to the railway line with just a pathway (cinder path) barely a metre wide running along to Chalkwell where it becomes the esplanade running to Southend and beyond to Thorpe Bay & Shoebury.

The Essex Yacht Club has remained a ‘water based’ club aboard a converted club ship – currently an ex Royal Navy GRP Minehunter, the Wilton.

Essex Yacht Club as seen c1947.
The Essex Yacht Club’s club ship in 2020.

Below is a 1947 view looking west from close by Chalkwell Station. A line from the esplanade here to outside the distant Essex club ship to the current eastern tip of Two Tree Island was proposed to be housing and public spaces – essentially in line with the then local plan.

Looking west from close by Chalkwell Station c1947.

Below is a view across the old yard of Johnson & Jago, now Lower Thames Marina. Note cockle sheds along front beyond the shed front. Below it is a view recently taken a little east of the marina’s yard, looking past the Belton Way Little Boat Club. The strand that once sat in fron of the sheds has now been incorporated by the cockle community, with half-tide wharves out to the creek edge.

Looking over Johnson & Jago’s Yard and down Leigh Creek, c1947 . Note the long expanse east of boatyard which is ’empty’ – now mostly taken by the yard’s lay-up facility.

In the following picture, note too, the growth of saltings running east and towards the creek’s southern edge. Little banks of cord grass have crept down to where Leigh Creek turns away from shore, east of the old station (Leigh-on-Sea Sailing Club) and abuts the creek edge in many places.

It is one of the estuaries conundrums: although the level of the sea is rising and the land is sinking, locally, siltation and saltmarsh growth is rampant. Note: Essex and Kent have lost around 40% of their saltings in past fifty years.

View down Leigh Creek from by the Belton Way Little Boat Club, 2020, with saltings growth eastwards. Note the cockle boat wharves to lhs.

Back at the end of World War Two, it was apparent that there were plans to extend the esplanade that runs from Shoebury past Southend to the eastern side of Chalkwell Station through past Leigh-on-Sea. A new southern road surface some years ago too, and died…

The waterfront area of Chalkwell was reclaimed from the sea many decades earlier and is an area at risk of flooding to this day. Sailing close to the shore, the view inland is not dissimilar to looking at Canvey Island.

The foreshore here is low and the tide arrives earlier than many other areas, hence the reasoning for Chalkwell Bay as a site for a marina earlier than my father’s thesis ideas

Note the reference regarding esplanade plans: clearly never happened!

Even today, the idea of a marina in the Southend area is revived from time to time – generally centred on the Southend’s famous pleasure pier, however, most yachtsmen would want to know how berths would be protected from the forces due to weather and ship induced swells. Never mind the clear problems around access!

The finest idea in recent times came from a well known yachtsman (Royal Burnham YC) and businessman who wanted to build a marina and village on the western side of Canvey Island bordering Holehaven Creek – Mr Peter de Savary. However, his company’s plans were sunk by local opinion and a lack of local imagination, plus the discovery of the Carder Bee on some waste industrial land!

See: https://desavary.com

Currently, all yachting centres in the area are suffering increasingly severe problems from creek siltation. This is largely due to the misguided inning of much of the areas saltings over many decades back to before the age of the railway, which took away the largest area c 1840-50. The rapidity of useful creek water loss has increased following the blocking off of creeklets and their areas of saltings following the infamous 1953 east coast floods. This was admitted by the Coastal Agency at a River Thames Meeting held at the Island YC some years ago.

I personally fear this gradual demise of ‘useful water’. It is something that local yacht club’s are almost powerless to alter, other than tinkering around the edges.

Cockle boat unloading in creek, c1947. There are no tufts of cord grass out there!

The numbers of moorings laid off Leigh-on-Sea, even after the end of WW2, was far higher than it is now. Many craft currently moored west of the town’s eastern most wharf, Bell Wharf, do not float on neap tides or can move even before the tides pass the 5.0 m level (Southend). The situation will only become poorer as the years pass.

In the plate below, Whimbrel is sailing over the Leigh Flats, off The Peter Boat PH, with minimal clearance beneath her keel, yet it looks idyllic for sailing capers. I have recently been alerted by boating folk that the depth of water in the moorings of Lower Thames Marine are suffering from siltation – only constant dredging could alleviate this.

Off the Leigh-on-Sea shore looking west towards cockle sheds, 2020.

The local cockle community have taken over the Strand and it has become a wharfage that only floods on very high tides. Gone are the days when the boats listed over on the strand and were unloaded by men with baskets swinging on a yoke. Hard graft, for sure!

Unloading in that famous time honoured way – two baskets slung on a yoke, c1947.

The thesis touched upon tidal streams that would most likely flow into and around the eastern wall of the idea. In the sketch below a tongue of sand is shown to the rhs. This feature is essentially still along that bank of the Ray, with a deep gut leading ‘west’ into the growing saltings on eastern end of Two Tree Island. There used to be a beacon along here until recent years.

In the Ray Channel around here sits a horse (shallow patch) which dries during springs. The southern side of the Ray with a narrow channel is buoyed again after a period of years without. The buoys can be seen in plate below and the horse, which virtually blocks the Ray Channel. The picture was taken after a seriously low tide level. My Whimbrel just crept through after I’d sailed up to just below and grounding in the ‘middle’ of what was normally sufficient water. The dark ‘blob’ in the picture’s middle area is a cockle boat which was on the bottom even that far east.

Horse in the Ray Channel ‘off Leigh-on-Sea’ which all but closes channel.

My father’s thesis stated that there was sufficient water for a 6′ (1.8 m) draft yacht to reach his proposed marina!

The marina’s entrance would have been a little east of the entrance to Smallgains Creek and I have incorporated a picture of Whimbrel in that area, which is the silted up northern ray channel around Bargander Sand (The big lump in the middle of the Upper Ray).

My father’s assumed tidal flows around proposal plans.
Whimbrel beached for a scrub September 2020 in silted entrance to the old Hadleigh Ray channel, about where lock access was proposed. This is the tail of Bargander Sand.

In the plate above, we had scrubbed off after returning before returning to our mooring during August. It is a perfect piece of firm clean sand. great for the mate to get in under the bottom…

Detail of tidal flows by lock entrance.

Below is a close up of the thesis proposals. The entrance into Smallgains Creek now comes across the flats and joins Hadleigh Ray, as it is know this far in, a little to the east of sketched position.

Area in red extent of actual land reclamation…

The extent of the thesis’s planned reclamation area isn’t the whole truth though: the marina basin would cover an expanse of sand/mud. The area now is rich in eel grass, a favoured delicacy of the Brent Geese which arrive every September.

General view of basin showing Hadleigh Ray and Smallgains Creek with proposed layout within the basin.
View west from area of ‘lock’ up Ray with edge of Smallgains Creek to far lhs. The Bargander Sand edge is to rhs.
Proposal outlines for marina walls and moorings – note boats moored to buoys!

As is well known locally and far beyond, the area has become a magnet for wildlife. A seal colony spends their summer months in the Lower Ray off Chalkwell Bay. In winter, I frequently encounter seals whilst sailing. They even forage up into Smallgains Creek.

A seal seen in the autumn of 2018 over Leigh Flats east of Two Tree Island.

Wading birds of many species winter here too, feeding on the rich foodstuffs found in the shallow rills and mud/sand flats. The saltings provide shelter and food too.

Swirl of waders over the local saltings, autumn 2019.

Mitigation was an unknown concept then and, not surprisingly, it isn’t given a thought.

Would such a project see the light of day today?

It is doubtful, even with the availability of mitigation. Upriver, the building of the new container port required huge areas of land to be given back to the sea west of the site and over on (reclaimed) land along the Cliffe shore, where seawalls have been broken.

I believe, that flooding of land to west of Leigh under Hadleigh Downs was and remains a logical project. It would require the raising of the rail line, not insurmountable and the creation of islands within: the land has shrunk and immediately west of Leigh-on-Sea station the fields sit metres below the outer saltings. The sea wall could be broken and bridged to allow people to appreciate at a distance the recreated landscape. Wallasea Island’s return to the sea is working and provides a larger scale version of much needed satellite areas.

Some of the mud could come from locally used creeks…

Brent Geese off Leigh-on-Sea .

The other question is whether a marina would be wanted by the local yachting community, who, like myself, enjoy the ‘tranquil’ ways of our marshland moorings?

All yachting folk know of many marinas: we all like a hot shower when cruising. We all like to just wander ashore and enjoy the ability to potter into a local waterfront hostelry for an inviting evening. There are so many positives…

What is certain is the future is becoming more and more difficult for deeper draft yachts in this Lower Thames idyll. The mud and salting growth along a half mile stretch of Benfleet Creek from below the barrier has been amazing to watch over the past twenty years.

Smallgains Creek is rapidly becoming a ‘gut’ with marsh moorings protected by a rapidly wasting island tail. Alluvial deposits creep ever more round the diminishing saltings. Will they eventually block Smallgains Creek?

What would have been the legacy. I think we all know the answer!

Would this have bee the legacy, massed ranks of unused craft?
11/23/20

Ditch-crawler and mate make most of second Covid-19 lock-down…

A full National lock-down in England came into force for the second time during 2020 on 5th November. This was after various areas of the country went into varying levels of restrictions, but the science was warning of another peak, so, in we went…

On the day before after a period of inclement weather, it dawned clear, sunny and with a gentle breeze. ‘We’re going…’ I said, over breakfast. My good mate nodded, indicating, her too!

Creeping out of our creek we were accompanied by Brent whilst waders swirled around the marsh eastern point of Canvey Island. A seal was spotted ‘snorkelling’ aver the shallows chasing fish. Tiny grebe were about too…

We crept up into Leigh Creek to look at a sunken Finesse 21, reputedly, No.3 from c1963.

It was a glorious sail, with a poke up into leigh Creek (for the hell of it) and a look at a sunken Finesse 21 which has sat mouldering for over a decade. She was once a pristine varnished little ship.

Finesse 21, number 3, built probably in 1963, sunk in Leigh Marshes.

It was great to get out afloat aboard Whimbrel: we’d not had a sail for some weeks. This was partly due to being away on two holidays (one a delayed break from end of March!) and weather.

During the dry periods in late Summer and early autumn, I’d got a lot of little areas of re-varnishing done where areas had broken down – around beadings in the main.

The second full lock-down dawned with a gorgeous sunrise, as did the first back at the end of March.

Lock-down sunrise…

Interestingly, along with various other water based activities, sailing was allowed, providing crew were from same household or a single person within the family bubble. This meant our ‘boy’ could come along too … weather and his work commitments allowing.

I had a job in hand aboard Whimbrel. The stem head fitting needed removing to discover why rusting was taking place. The boat has a rigging ‘iron’ of bronze on the front face of the stem which I use for fastening a forestay too, when needed. That done, the fitting was renewed and the boat’s second forestay tied off clear.

Stem head cleaned up and repainted ready…

The condition of the fittings inside faces was ‘clean’ with no corrosion taking place, which has happened before some years ago. The fastenings, however, were in a dubious state. Nearly half had suffered crevis corrosion.

This was the worst of the screws removed.

I had some spares but not enough. I also questioned whether or not they were of A4 marine quality. Local outlets were closed in any case, so, an on line job beckoned. Two sets of replacements of A4 quality were ordered – sit back and wait. Bless the world wide web!

Christmas cake mix soaking in brandy…

In the meantime, when not walking for our daily exercise, the Christmas Cake and Mincemeat were made!

Finally, the fastenings arrived and the cleaned up stem fitting with the necessary were deposited aboard Whimbrel. A week of day-time tides delayed work, plus a few buckets of rain and foul high winds.

Ready…

Oh, and a tube of 291i bedding compound took its time to arrive too – the company sent out another, which arrived pronto. The original arrived later and was sent back!

Autumnal colours were enjoyed on one of our regular walks.

Time crept on, we both had a joint baking day for festive period nibbles – we might see some of our friends! Note – the scones (cheese and bacon) were made for walking lunch bites.

Our bake-day efforts!

Finally, on a calm and pleasant day – last Sunday to be precise – we enjoyed a late breakfast (NO walking afterwards) and headed to Whimbrel to get the job started some weeks earlier, finished.

Tools prepared and walking board over the side, away ‘we’ went. Sadly, during the operation, Christobel as tool hander, got somewhat chilled. Ah, she’s a great mate!

Stem and fitting coated with Sikaflex 291i … it is stick stuff!

I won’t describe the job, but follow the pictures…

Fastenings located – now for the large bolt and cable roller.
All fastenings and such were well greased.
Tapping main bolt through to locate the cable roller.

The flanges of the fitting are secured with several countersunk screws either side plus two set screws I fitted some years ago. A secondary large bolt of say 8 mm would be better at foot of fitting. This has been done on another Finesse 24, Gypsy. The cable roller bolt essentially takes the loading from the forestay.

Job done… Note, both rigging screws were well greased too.

All I’d like to do now is go for a sail, as allowed by the laws passed by our august Parliament, weather permitting!

11/8/20

Ditch-crawler looks at several barge yachts seen in recent travels…

The first of two barge yachts I saw during my travels this year were upon the water, another was spied recently during the autumn whilst walking.

The first discussed, pictured below, came through Queenborough towards the end of August. I couldn’t focus in on her name, but a sailing friend has said he believes her to be the Clara B.

Initially, I thought she was planning to stop at the harbour’s pontoon, but after slowing, puttered away round the Swale, east bound.

Apparently, the vessel moored off the old Coal Wharf ’round the corner’ in the harbour, where she sat for two days before departing. Where she went, I do not know.

Unidentified barge yacht motoring through Queenborough last August.

A little more sheer would give her a visual lift to my mind, but that is merely a personal view! It would be great to see her rigged out and sailing, for sure. The Peter Nicholls site says that the hull of these craft were designed around the famous ‘racer’ Girilda, built by Pipers of Greenwich around a 120 years ago.

The Clara B is thought to have been built by Peter Nicholls who is a builder of steel deep water cruising yachts (similar to the bay Class once built round at Conyer) and Dutch types. The firm has also built 10 m length ‘Thames’ barges – barge yachts.

See: https://www.steelboats.co.uk

Again, back in August, we left Queenborough more or less at the same time as the sweet little Nancy Grey. The little ship had been alongside the pontoon as we came through on our way up round the Swale and into the River Medway. She cast off and motored after us…

Clear of the harbour and in open water, her owner, Tim, rounded into the wind to hoist sail. Tim is an old Finesse owning friend who’d had the Finesse 21, Ivy May, for many years. His two lads were aboard, with the eldest revelling in his position aft at the helm.

Up into the wind and hoist away…
Keep her steady helm…
A bit more on the peak, Tim!

We tacked about a little to keep within range and watch the crew working away, chuckling: oh how much simpler the Bermudian rig is!

Main set, the jib was broken out and they were away…

Tim hardens in the jib sheet and they’re sailing…

Soon after Nancy Grey’s staysail was set and yes, she looked a picture. I have known of the Nancy Grey and her sister Dione for around fifty or more years, having passed them when sailing aboard the spritsail barge May Flower (my childhood home) and also, latterly, the Dione was berthed close by May Flower’s berth being herself kept in Shoregate Dock off Milfordhope Creek – a creek running west from the foot of Stangate Creek.

Pretty as a picture…

We later met up with Tim in Chatham Marina where we’d come in for a couple of days for use of the laundry, showers and a visit to Rochester. He said he was pleased with ‘Nancy’ but clearly had a lot to learn.

In the autumn, on our way to a hotel holiday based in deal, we stopped off at Faversham for a coffee break. A stop here also means a pop into the yard at Iron Wharf, for me! I also popped into speak to Alan Staley )

See: http://www.alanstaleyboatbuilders.co.uk

& https://www.ironwharf.net

I was surprised to bump into ‘Nancy’ up on chocks, stripped of hull paint. The hull looks sound enough, but clearly some filling, sanding and painting awaits Tim’s attention: he’ll not want boat to dry out too much!

Nancy Grey high and dry.
Forward view.

The bottom of both of the sister barge yachts isn’t flat, but a very flat ‘V’ and they have a bit of a keel below the ‘flat’ bottom, as can be seen when looking from aft.

Nancey Grey’s owner tells me that he is desperately trying to get some paint on the old girl, but the autumn weather hasn’t been particularly conducive.

Her aft quarters – note the runs from her flat bottom as they turn into stern frame and transom.

I look forward to meeting her again next year upon the water.

Another is Calluna, a barge yacht dealt with in a similar blog in October 2014, discussing barge yachts. This is also a product of Peter Nichols.

Calluna’s owner did not rig this year due to the shortness of the season during our Covid-19 crisis, and the little ship has sat, patiently, at her moorings along the shore by the Belton Way Little Boat Club. The owner, does however have another small Bermudian sloop which he has used to entertain himself aboard!

For the old blog, see:

In that 2014 post, I also talked about the last of the little ships seen. Now though, all is not as rosy for her. The vessel is the ‘proper’ little barge yacht, Tiny Mite.

Tiny Mite also hails from the Shuttlewood yard at Paglesham on the banks of the River Roach. The yard is long closed, but the weathered and old clapboard shed still sits at the top of a crumbling hard.

The Tiny Mite ashore at the Leigh Motor Boat Club.

Tiny Mite’s owner has been quite ill of late and the ship is now on the market. As previously said, in 2014, she has been extensively rebuilt. However, since her launch, I do not believe she has been sailed.

She has sat in a rigged and ready state for a number of seasons, but her mainsail was ‘blown out’. The owner does have a spare sail available. Cosmetic maintenance is clearly required.

Now, look at her sheer – the Nicholls craft could be same!

Notice how shapely the old girl is against the much flatter lines of Nancy Grey. Tiny Mite, is in essence a miniature spritsail barge, however, her scantlings would not be expected to bear the weight of anything such as cargo carrying. She is a yacht!

Well, if you are interested in this lovely vessel, your best bet is to contact the Leigh Motor Boat Club, Leigh-on-Sea, Essex.

A friend said to me, ‘…if I’d been ten fifteen years younger, I’d…’

Go for it, if inclined. She’s a fine ship under sail.

See here an earlier post about a book and booklet sent to me – the booklet is amazing and ‘advertises’ new build barge-yachts, back in the years following WW2.

See: https://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-gets-a-wow-present-in-post

10/26/20

Ditch-crawler and Mate enjoy a cracking day on the spritsail barge Blue Mermaid.

Our connection with the Blue Mermaid and the Sea-change Sailing Trust began many years ago now.

I had just had my book ‘May Flower A Barging Childhood‘ published (2007) and in chapter one, I had written of my thoughts about barge reconstructions and the building a ‘replica’ in steel. Uncannily, during 2008/9 I learnt of the Blue Mermaid appeal…

Christobel and I have been avid supporters in print as well as in hard cash, ever since.

Now for a spot of history. The original Blue Mermaid was blown up by a mine near the old position of the West Hook Middle Buoy in the Swin. The May Flower was tacking with her towards the spitway – the May Flower went to Colchester after the Blue Mermaid’s crew were looked for, sadly a forlorn hope for nothing was found.

The appeal was for the build of a new vessel to allow the trust to fulfil its stated aims in an ongoing cost effective way. Time passed by, funds were raised alongside a continuation of trust programmes afloat in a variety of chartered barges. Finally, the new barge was launched – built at Polruan, Cornwall – towed to Maldon and fitted out over a two year period.

With a season and a bits real work under her belt, along came the year of Covid-19…

Most barges remained either relatively inactive or did not even rig in the spring. The Sea-change Trust rigged out the Blue Mermaid to give trainees some experience, also, once rigged the trust has managed to do training in house and crew/skippering weekend sessions.

Buoy dropped off, Richard has placed me on the helm…

We’d been invited to sail with the trust on several occasions, but were always tied up sailing aboard Whimbrel. Then an email came through while we were away on a ‘cottage’ holiday at a working windmill in Boston – would we like to go on a day trip. Wow, yes please!

We had to be at Heybridge Basin in time to be picked up at 0600 … with two others. Fortunately, that night was also ‘clocks’ so we did not loose much in the way of ‘normal’ sleep. However, it was a long day full of excitement and pride.

Coming up to and past Osea Island. Christobel & Hilary in deep conversation…

Initially, Christobel was called aft by Richard (skipper) to helm off the buoy – she didn’t like that and called me aft, saying to Richard that she would rather I did it. I’d have trusted her…

It was uncannily quiet on a day with a inshore waters forecast of SW 5-7. Local weather predictions were a little lower, but…

A strange tidal set took across in towards the Millbeach moorings and a tack was needed across to Northey Island. The wind increased and the barge bit into the ebbing tide and began to show her paces, breaking free.

Behind us, the Topsail Charters vessel Hydrogen could be seen setting sail as she motored down with a much reduced Covid compliant party aboard.

It seemed a shame to stop, but the anchor was dropped off the Osea shore and whilst the bacon sizzled below, the four of us helped Ollie (mate/1st hand) rig the jib.

During breakfast we were hit by a squall and a short vicious burst of showers … it soon cleared!

One of our fellow crew helping 1st hand Ollie rig the jib.

At breakfast, I mentioned to Richard and Hilary that I was expecting a facetime call with my mother who has had to go into a care home and all are currently isolated. I continued to helm as we were passing Bradwell.

The wind increased on the way down river and I could feel the pull of the jib. It was exhilarating, different from sailing Whimbrel, but I was getting the feel of her.

Setting sail from Osea Island.
Osea Island is now astern … checking the bob/topsail relationship with my mate close by… A picture reminiscent in ‘May Flower’ and I’m close to a similar spot!

It was sublime sailing. Different, Christobel said, to sailing on Whimbrel: from the deck of a spritsail barge one is higher above the water, less conscious of speed and seemingly all the time in the world to gaze.

Passing an old and affectionate friend…

As the time for my call came, I handed the helm to one of our fellow crew. Now, the chap has only just begun to sail in dinghies, but he seemed a natural at the helm under Richard’s watchful eye.

Jabbering to my mother and showing her the scenes around the deck and beyond, she was transported to days long ago!

I gazed in awe at the beauty of her canvas – my mother too, commented!
Down the ‘needle’ a yacht and the Hydrogen.

Off Sales Point, the wind strengthened into a ‘bargeman’s breeze’ … we were tramping along hitting 8 1/2 knots. Richard and Ollie had a conversation and the topsail was rucked as the Bench head was left astern.

The spitway was in sight when we turned.

Bench Head …
A bone in her teeth…

A lunch stop was planned off the beach at Sales Point. The wind eased as we came back into the river’s mouth with the shore to windward.

Conversation rattled round the lunch table with people spaced apart (apart from Christobel and I, and as I said, to guffaws, we’d woken up together, so presumably were a ‘bubble’…)

The view from the wheel soon after setting off from Sales Point, with full main being sheeted out.

Before departing the bowsprit was steeved up. Anchor next … I was again at the helm. In glorious afternoon sunshine, we dropped off under very little mainsail, the rest set as we gathered way and the topsail as we tacked.

‘What do you want me to do?’ I asked Richard.

‘Take her upriver…’ he said, as he disappeared below.

On a ‘long’ heading towards Osea Island along St Lawrence Bay. Note port hand lamp set.

With the two chaps forward with Hilary or Ollie, we long and short tacked west up the delightful River Blackwater.

At times, I seemed alone. Christobel was close by watching, looking happy and trying to get a word in from time to time…

At one point, I called, ‘think we should to tack.’

‘Your call…’ drifted down from forward.

Ready about … lee O … le’ go … back onto the tram lines…

One tack more after Thirslet Spit and Blue Mermaid’s bow sprit was on the Marconi. We were close on the wind!

The afternoon was moving towards an earlier evening than we’ve all been used to – clocks!

The navigation lamps were lit and placed…

By the time we approached Osea Island, it was dusk. Ahead, the marks were difficult to see. Ollie was impressed that I’d worked the Blue Mermaid through the gap past Stansgate Point and Osea.

Another conversation took place. ‘What’s up?’ I asked Hilary.

‘Nothing … you got us here too early…’ she said grinning. She followed this with embarrassing praise!

We went on past The Doctor, turned and sailed back to the Marconi after reaching ‘The Doubles’. Times were discussed around me … plenty now, it was reckoned. Water off Heybridge…

It was surreal sailing towards a known destination but unable to see very much. The ‘blinking’ buoys were out of view until passing them by. With crew alert all around, I concentrated hard, feeling proud of them, myself and the barge.

Hilly Pool was loomed. Richard’s form was apparent. He lifted a leeboard a turn, then turned and said, ‘Do you mind if I take her now…’

Just a few more short tacks, the topsail dropped, the barge was spun as mizzen was stowed and mainsail reduced to a mere scrap…

Then, the barge with its ‘way’, Ollie and Richard gently found our buoy…

My view…

What did I gain from the experience?

Well, every day is a school day and I, in particular, refreshed buried skills from my barging childhood: although I’d sailed on a number of spritsail barges over the years, this time there was a clear trust in my ability to handle this one million pound vessel … to call for the tacks, and to bring her up, in the dark especially, to Hilly Pool. I’ve sailed for many decades, but I learnt an awful lot.

Christobel too appreciated the caring attitude of the Trust’s patient and non-condescending teaching methods, gently caressing those with little or no knowledge into ‘efficient’ hands – this was reiterated by the other two chaps aboard. It is something I’ve written about before in magazine and blog articles.

What a day we had. It was a long one, but absolutely wonderful.

Thank you, Richard, Hilary and Ollie, and our two other crewmates.

10/23/20

Ditch-crawler learns of good news about the Harty Ferry freshwater spring…

Now, if you weren’t aware, at the top of the Harty Ferry hard on the Oare shore, there is a natural spring well. This has issued forth for well over one hundred years, but, sadly, it ceased running towards the end of 2018.

Many thought that was that…

I can remember going ashore here to top up the fresh water tank on the May Flower when we were round the East Swale during the mid 1960s. My father had a ‘small’ tank which could be shifted, from which, when hoisted in a davit it was run down to main tank. We must have done this several times, I expect! These days, 25 L drums can be used.

Top of the Harty ferry hard on the Oare shore with a wedding couple having pictures taken!

The well was sunk 100’s of feet down to the greensands layer below the chalk in the early 1900s by a mining company. It has run freely for yachtsmen to fill their water caskets and for casual passer by use too, ever since.

In 1982, apparently, it came under the stewardship of Kent Wildlife Trust, who administer the Oare Marshes Reserve which takes in much of the old ammunition (gunpowder) works land and saltings where a fleet of barges lies cocooned to the west of the hard.

Rudder and stern post of a barge rudder in saltings…

The well has had relatively little done to it since its inception, however, towards the end of 2018 it ceased to flow.

Various organisations came to the aid of Kent Wildlife Trust (Swale Council – funds, Southeast Water, The Boorman Family Foundation and a local outfit, Touch the Earth). It was found that the cast iron down pipe was fractured or wasted.

A drilling firm, OT Drilling, relined the cast iron pipework and restored the flow.

Filling a ‘beaker’ – seen by author in 2016.

So, the flow has been restored and yachtsmen (not included in the article I came across in a Faversham Community Magazine recently) can also pop ashore if requiring good quality water.

The water is tested annually for quality and is, of course, not chlorinated.

Whimbrel just off the hard in 2016.

Below is part of the article…

Courtesy of Faversham Community Ad Magazine – issue 24.

Well done to all parties, I say!

10/18/20

Ditch-crawler and mate enjoy first autumn sail…

I don’t usually count over the autumn season until September has passed by for so often the weather can continue to be ‘sublime’, however this year, the sparsity of rain enjoyed during the whole year changed and we have had some heavy deluges in natures attempt to even things out…

We have also had to be away on family business – getting ‘mother’ settled into a care home after a series of falls, a fractured neck bone and Covid-19 Syndrome. Pluss we’d been away in South Lincolnshire on holiday.

So, with a fine settle Friday approaching and a good tide, we changed our routine and went for it. It was a little overcast, with a useful N-Ne blowing from the hills along the Leigh-Southend shore.

Christobel hauling up the sails, jib done then the main – heave!

Leaving the creek, the Brents were prolific. The terns have gone now and wafts of waders were swirling around the point marshes. Christobel stood watching, entranced…

I had booked a facetime call with my mother to ‘take her sailing’, so we headed deep in towards the foot of Southend Pier. The call was late, so I had to turn (or try to go under…!). Her call came through shortly afterwards and my ma gave me a run down on the scene before her…

A few minutes later we could have gone ashore at Peter Pans Playground!

The beaches now are largely empty, but intrepid swimmers were seen with heads bobbing and one or two with ‘safety float’ tugging along behind. A sprinkling of paddle boarders and canoeists were also seen.

As we approached the area of the Essex YC, my call with my virtual passenger had come to an end, not before my mother had spotted the church on Leigh Hill.

The boat I went back to see if they wanted help a few weeks ago…

We passed by the yacht that I’d gone back to to see if they needed any help after breaking their mast … I was surprised that no temporary forestay hadn’t been rigged. Presumably, they’ll be lifted out soon…

Sailing past the old Timber Wharf, I spotted an acquaintance (Tony) aboard his Seaking. The boat has suffered damage to her bilge due to twisting/pounding on keel depth bilge keels. I’d get them cut back somewhat, to minimise the chances of this reoccurring. It is a problem suffered by more than a few Finesse 24s with deep bilge keels – a problem many Centaur and other Westerly owners have suffered.

Seaking 26′ Scansen moored off Leigh-on-Sea.

It was getting towards highwater, but all thoughts of turning for home were far away as I let Whimbrel carry on towards the Belton Way Little Boat Club, immediately west of the last cockle shed. I gave a cheery wave to the closed looking place, but there would have been a couple of ‘old boys’ sitting drinking tea!

Local sailor and yachting journalist Dick Durham was seen rowing his tender back to leigh from the Island YC…

The Belton way Little Boat Club…

I looked west up Leigh Creek as it fed round the saltings off Lower Thames Marine towards where a Finesse 21 has been moored for years, becoming nothing more than a delict. She has now sunk… How sad!

Finesse 24, Moon Song, owned locally…

Having turned we threaded our way out towards clear water across the shallows, passing between the edge of Leigh Marsh and the stem of the old tiller steered barge whose stem alone now shows her existence.

Passing the stem of the Eva Annie.

Huge flocks of Brent were paddling about awaiting the appearance of eel grass as the tide ebbed away. It kind of reminded me that that indeed, the tide was ebbing and it wouldn’t do to touch on the flats…

Geese lifting off as we approached.

With a beam wind, slightly on the port quarter we picked up speed as the hills receded astern and I was dealing with fenders, leaving Christobel to helm.

Once in the creek, a cacophony noise from Brent within the salting channels met us and I listened briefly before letting the main run down leaving Whimbrel to forge over the now fast running ebb.

Time for us to change positions … so with my trusty mate forward with jib halyard in her hands, we swung towards our mooring.

Standing ready…

‘Down…’ I called.

The sail was doused…

Down…

The boat gliding serenely as we slipped into our berth until with a hard pull, as I grabbed the stern line, she came to a halt against the fenders.

Yes, it was a glorious sail, the first of our autumn.

10/11/20

Ditch-crawler and Mate learn of some sadness whilst touring S. Lincolshire…

Some years ago whilst we were stopping at Maylandsea (Blackwater Marina), we met a couple who were aboard a catamaran. They hailed from The Gibraltar Point Sailing Yacht Club, south of Skegness.

‘Tucked just inside Gibraltar Point…’ the chap said, grinning. The club is at the southern foot of the febrile Lincolnshire coast in a narrow twisting mud creek which was once a haven for coastal shipping, with a port at Wainfleet. It’s also the northern point for ‘my’ inshore waters forecasting area – Gibraltar Point to North Foreland, but generally too big for inner Thames use.

It has been a place that I have always wanted to visit…

The ‘port’ of Wainfleet…

The ‘port’ of Wainfleet and its haven have long been reduced to a muddy creek through shifting saltings and an ever extending sand bar at Gibraltar Point. The village was given a drainage by-pass too to help prevent flooding.

The shifting coast line around Gibraltar Point.

The couple, let’s call them ‘John and Sandra’, had sailed down round the Norfolk coast to cruise the Thames Estuary waters. They were waiting for a window to start heading back, which we assumed they had achieved in time…

This all took place around a decade ago.

Maylandsea around a decade ago…

So, back to the present. We were on our way to Kings Lynn whilst on a touring holiday based in Boston (staying at a working windmill). Passing over the Fosdyke Bridge over the River Welland, I spotted sea going craft moored in the fast flowing silt laden river. I pulled into a pub car park which led to parking for mooring holders.

Looking down river … note two people loading sail bags into their car.

Walking towards a parked vehicle with a couple loading sail bags into back of their car, I stopped to natter …

Moorings on the River Welland by the A17 trunk road Fosdyke Bridge.

Sadly, I learnt, the chap had died and the boat sold. The couple I met were still in touch with the lady ‘Sandra’ and promised to pass on the condolences of Whimbrel’s crew – giving our names. I hope they do this: they were a friendly and happy couple.

Later in the week we finally made it to Gibraltar Point and I had a walk around the creek edge looking at some of the moored craft belonging to the local club.

Club building.

The moorings are fore and aft to the creek bank and without being rude, were of a ‘rickety nature’ in general, some more so than others. Some were clearly more substantial and had the look of ‘owner’ build rather than a common club system. The creek’s width was barely wide enough to turn some of the craft.

Moorings lower down the creek.
A more substantial affair with a lovely gaff cutter alongside.

It was lovely to visit Gibraltar Point, saddened by the earlier news but pleased to see ‘yachting’ taking place in such a wild and ‘desolate’ yet beautiful place.

Rest in Peace ‘John’…

09/29/20

Ditch-crawler has a busy week, then with his Mate has a joyful twenty-four hours afloat…

Yes, we did, but first…

Having had an enforced stay in the depths of lovely Wiltshire on ‘mother watch’ while kid sister was away swanning around the Ionian Sea, sailing, it was good to get back to the marshlands of the Thames estuary.

While I was in Wiltshire, I ‘retrieved’ May Flower’s cabin lamp from my mother’s flat (being sold: sadly she suffered badly during Covid-19 lock-down with what is being called Covid Syndrome and has gone into a lovely care home…). I am currently cleaning and servicing it. It will be presented to a barge trust…

The aft cabin lamp from May Flower 1888 – 1988.

I enjoyed a couple of sails alone in glorious late summer weather, on the cusp of autumn. Instead of heading in one of my favourite directions, up Hadleigh ray and Benfleet Creek, I spent time in the wider yonder.

I have only once gone beyond the Old Salvation Army Wharf since the threat to burn Whimbrel was made by a member of the Benfleet Yacht Club and the subsequent verbal assault experienced over on the River Medway: I have no wish to meet the character again out on the open water.

I was advised by the police to ‘carry on as normal…’ Easy said. The saga remains an Essex Police Matter, so I’ll say no more. However, I miss seeing the colours of autumn coming as those special changes take place along the edges of the salt marshes.

I’ll get back to it.

Finesse 24, Calluna, owned by a friend at the Island Yacht Club in silhouette…

Whilst out on one of the two sails, I stood by to check if three youngish chaps were alright after their vessel suffered a mast breakage. It was surreal: the mast just tumbled before my eyes.

There were a number of craft closer than myself, but NOT ONE went over to ask if people were okay. I found that very sad, disturbing almost.

Most likely, they weren’t looking around…

The boat was quickly sorted out and after I’d asked if there propulsion was working and prop clear, I left them to it … watching as they motored towards Leigh-on-Sea.

A Cardinal Rule Afloat- you check anyone seen to be in some sort of trouble. Last time, it cost me most of my best 3-ply nylon warps, which still have not been returned by another Benfleet Yacht Club member. That episode was over three months ago now!

Pretty little cruiser with a shattered wooden mast.
Two pretty vessels – both former Finesse owners – a Liberty 22 and Seaking 23.

So, there appeared on the forecast a weather window, lasting for several days. On Sunday (just gone) I had agreed to visit the Blackwater Sailing Club to meet a chap who had purchased a Finesse 21 which had lain unused for around three seasons. Some advice was needed. That done we readied ourselves for an early start on the Monday morning…

Stern of Finesse 21, Sea Pie. Boat is under new ownership at the Blackwater SC.

The forecast was good, but a ridge of cloud at the edge of a high pressure was slow moving. It was grey and not entirely inviting, but there were no murmurs of discontent from either of us. It was dry!

We cleared our moorings a little over two hours before highwater and were soon bustling past Canvey Point, River Medway bound.

Tides being neaps, we glided over those last two hours of slack flood as it made its way westwards. We entered the River Medway, passing inside Grain Fort, and on into Queenborough before the turn of the tide. Our passage from moored to moored was barely 2 1/4 hours. In the ‘light-ish’ conditions, we were both pleased with that. It was nice to get a run over, rather than being hard on the wind.

Goose winged across the Thames.
Grain Fort astern moments after my chat to my mother…

The passage was so serene, I was able to facetime my mother in her care home. She thoroughly enjoyed sailing along with us as we passed Grain Fort. ‘Never been inside that…’ she piped up.

‘You have now,’ I said, laughing!

It was chilly, so soup appeared for lunch and having tidied we rowed ashore to pay our mooring fee and ‘chat the staff up’…

The sun had come out properly as we entered the river too, lighting it up nicely.

Whimbrel on the Queenborough Harbour Trust mooring trot.

Ashore, the first thing we saw was that the Bosun’s store is about to reopen … as a gift/tea shop, as reported widely elsewhere. But, so pleased the old name is being retained.

Sign for Queenborough’s new tea shop…

We set off round the old harbour, passing displays of floral colour. The town really does put on a good show. The harbour was tranquil with the ebbing tide providing a mirror for many reflections.

One of numerous floral displays.
The always colourful old harbour within Queenborough Creek.

Our path took us along an old track leading to an old works wharf where the glue factory once polluted the air hereabouts and walked along the seawall top looking alternately out over the drying expanse of food rich mud flats and the growing mass of new housing, inland.

Looking round the curve of the beach made of fragmented brick, tiles and other pottery items.

We walked over the bottoms of several spritsail barges. Christobel remembered seeing bits of them on a previous walk, but commented that one in particular was more obvious. Bottom boards and floors in forefront of above picture.

The path took us onto what was the rail line to the Coal Wharf – now derelict round towards Long Point. Frome that a path takes one up onto Rushenden Hill, behind the screen of trees seen from the water.

From the hill, glorious views can be enjoyed towards Kingsferry Bridge and over the marshes beyond the West Swale to Bedlams Bottom and the foot of Stangate Creek. We were not dissapointed!

Looking ‘down’ into the West Swale towards Kingsferry and the two bridges.

It was time to wend our way ‘homewards’ – via the Costa Coffee house at the shopping centre, then back along the inland part of Queenborough Creek which is a nature reserve, to the harbour…

An enjoyable two hours.

Sunset…

The sunset came as I finished producing a mild chicken curry dish finished with fresh yogurt, both were spectacular!

Morning came and I was woken by the patter of rain. It didn’t last long, but it was a misty, damp and grey start to the day. The greyness stayed until we were sailing up the Ray Channel in a light breeze.

Garrison Point in the murk…

Christobel took the boat out towards Grain Fort, handing over to get breakfast underway.

Rashers of just crisped bacon slipped into a roll with lashings of ketchup. The end result was yummy indeed!

The bacon, almost ready for the inside of a roll…
Setting off across the dredged Yantlet Channel as a dredger ‘rumbles’ upriver.
Sails were stowed by time we entered Smallgains Creek…

The sun made several attempt to break through, finally it did and blue expanses spread out around us. The light lit the golden autumnal hue of the saltings. Away on the Leigh Marshes, brent geese called noisily. An occasional tern was heard: most have more than likely gone. Craft wise, the water was quiet, just us, returning home…

Yes, we enjoyed a splendid twenty-four hours, indeed, we did so…

09/24/20

Ditch-crawler gets a ‘wow’ present in post…

Some weeks ago, I received an email from a lady, Glenna White, asking me if I would like a little pamphlet, Whitewall Barge Yachts, which she had come across in a second hand book shop.

Glenna wasn’t asking for any payment, she just wanted it to go to good home and having found ‘me’ on the world wide web, contacted.

Now, many ‘barge’ people know of the company based at Upnor/Hoo and Whitewall Creek from the years immediately after World War II, as I of course had, but sight of a brochure, no, I hadn’t.

Today after returning from a day out, I found a large package on the door mat. Within, I found the pamphlet along with an original copy of Edgar J. March’s book, Spritsail Barges of the Thames and Medway.

Glenna’s gifts…

Having written to say a heartfelt thank you, I felt it only right to share my joy. It certainly boosts one’s belief in fellow human beings.

The pamphlet runs you through the basics of what you get for your money in a floating home which you can sail away on. A great many of the barge-yacht conversions on offer after World War II came from this company.

Layout of full size barge conversion.

A surprise to me was that the company offered a 45′ (half barge) built and fitted out as a cruising home.

The plan looks remarkably like a design produced by Maurice Griffiths and featured in my book, Swinging the Lamp.

Details for a 45′ new build barge-yacht.

Also within, were details of a 27′ barge-yacht…

Whether or not any of these new build proposals reached fruition, I do not know. If anyone does have knowledge, then i would be delighted to hear from you.

The 27′ version…

So, thank you again Glenna. Bless you.

09/16/20

Ditch-crawler watches as a bit of maritime history passes through Devizes, Tetbury bound…

Christobel and I were beginning to descend the Caen Locks, a famous flight in the inland waterways world, when I spotted something seemingly out of place.

To sketch out why we were so far from the sea – we were in Devizes on ‘mother watch’ whilst my sister was in Greece for a spot of sailing – for two weeks in fact!

What caught my eye was a river launch, of a definite 1930-40 vintage.

Vintage river launch…

Arriving at the boat’s approaching lock before it, I took the preferred line from the only man then aboard: his two crew were working the locks…

Striking up in conversation, I learnt that the boat was on its way to Tetbury (I think…) and had been bought towards the end of the phase two Covid-19 lock-down somewhere u the Thames.

The boat had been essentially refurbished by the last owner, who, for an unknown reason lost interest. The boat sat in a yard for over two years without a cover, deteriorating…

The name, Mariner III, could well be her original name and she apparently has a pedigree: she was one of a pair of motor launches built for the River Thames Police Unit in 1942. She would have been based at Wapping. This particular boat, and possibly her sister, escorted the Havengore with Sir Winston Churchill’s coffin aboard up the Thames prior to his funeral.

The Mariner III going gently downwards…

When built the launch had an open cockpit aft of the steering position amidships. The aft cabin was fitted when the boat was converted into a river cruiser. As I said to the owner, who plans to keep the additions, the arrangement was neat and looked as if it could have been as built.

I’m told that when built the boat’s hull would have been finished in black – as were police vehicles in those days. The 30′ 0″ vessel was built by Osborne’s of teak.

Securing in a lock on the Caen flight…

I wished the owner well in his venture – an extended Covid-19 lock-down project, apparently – and we carried on for on foot, we were travelling far faster then all the craft coming down the Caen flight…

If anyone has any info on the boat, I’d be pleased to hear from you.

Thank you to the people who alerted me to a couple of mistakes…

09/6/20

Ditch-crawler has a day with the Beeb on the River Medway…

It began probably around fifteen years ago when I was writing about the saltings around Saltpan Reach, Stangate Creek and Sharfleet: Burntwick Island was my target.

The book was: Rochester to Richmond, A Thames Estuary sailor’s View.

See: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rochester-Richmond-Thames-Estuary-Sailors/dp/1781556202/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&hvadid=80814204471414&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=nick+ardley&qid=1599421560&s=books&sr=1-2&tag=mh0a9-21

Burntwick Island has long been of interest: my father always used to say the buildings left upon it by the military after WW2 … he was a war and a bit out: they date from around 1894.

Whilst looking into these, up popped a man of great ‘importance’ and interest. He was Doctor Sidney Bernard R.N.

The old barrack block from the military days 1894-1914 looking after a boom across River Medway.

He became Surgeon on HMS Eclair, a steam assisted paddle wheel ‘gun boat’. The ship was engaged in the bight of Africa off Sierra Leone and Nigeria on anti slavery duty.

The ship was infected with Yellow Fever. On way back to Portsmouth the ship’s surgeon died in Madeira (a common ship stop=over place) and Sidney was promoted … on return to portsmouth he ship was dispatched to Sheerness and thence to the Stangate Creek Quarantine Station,

A round 50% of the crew eventually died … Sidney who remained with his patients also.

Sidney, for some unknown reason, was buried on Burntwick Island, then a sheep farm. The farm house was in the bight of the island west of the the jetty remains in Sharfleet Creek. There is little left of farm, except for a fragment of its ‘inland’ protective wall.

I had a call from the BBC Southeast office dealing with ‘Inside Out’ back n May/June asking if I was interested in doing something about Sidney Bernard. The presenter has been a ‘fan’ of my books for many years apparently.

So, following the phase 3 opening up of Covid-19 restrictions, we were able to arrange.

I left the two ‘Beeb’ chaps in charge aft…

I picked the team up in Queenborough and we sailed to Stangate, where the camera man was put ashore. We sailed away and came back … won’t bore anyone with the anchoring/rowing bits! Suffice to say the camera man got wet socks!

BBC Socks drying!

After some on board filming and lunch, I took the two into the saltings. Why Sidney was buried in this place is unknown. His family home was in Dublin and there was absolutely no way he could have been taken back: Yellow Fever putrefies the body.

I believe, he asked to be laid to rest here…

Grave of Surgeon Sidney Bernard. Only the railing tops are visible.

BBC Southeast will be broadcasting the piece in the Southeast Magazine Programme following the National News on Wednesday 9th September in the 1830-1900 slot. It is usually a little before ‘half time’…

See: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m000mjqy

There will be a shortened version on the ‘lunch time’ news on Tuesday 8th September.

Please note: I will not disclose where the grave is. A very few, if a mere couple of people know: it should be left alone and allow brave Sidney to continue to rest in peace.

The site has silted by another approximate 100 mm since my previous visit ten years ago.

The camera angles were such as to not give much away…

Please respect Sidney Bernard’s wishes to be buried in this lonely, yet beautiful place.

08/28/20

A little look at Ditch-crawler’s early summer, post Covid lock-down…

Our summer has been punctuated by latent strife, bubbling on beneath what has generally been a tranquil, warm and pleasant summer. It boiled over one day sailing into Stangate. But, that’s enough of that…

As the Covid-19 phase three lock-down release approached, I reran Whimbrel’s halyards with new ones prepared during the late winter and early spring, long before a lock-down was thought likely!

New halyards run and coiled…

The boat was treated to a new length of anchor cable too – covered separately. See: https://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-decides-whimbrel-needs-some-new-chain/

Another necessity before going off overnight was to replace the boat’s mooring warps. I had one good one left after I’d used all the other 3-strand nylon/polyester ones joined into one to make a long tow rope when we came across a Benfleet Yacht Club boat up on Bargander Sand outside Smallgains Creek.

We failed to pull her off, as did the Island Yacht Club’s work boat which came to our assistance. Our warps were accidentally ‘let go’ to the grounded yacht … all attempts to retrieve them have failed. I did hear that the owner was ill, but time has gone on, and what of crew/family responsibilities, let alone thanks and appreciation!

See: https://nickardley.com/ditch-crawler-enjoys-a-week-of-glorious-carnival-weather-finding-courtesy-and-cheerfulness/

As you will see the post’s title did not reflect life’s current finale! Renewals cost nearly the same as a our weekly groceries. Hmmmm…

New warps cut to length, eyes spliced into ends and served…

We finally got away for a week a few days after the 4th of July ‘release’ and enjoyed a gorgeous sail round the outside of the Isle of Sheppey to Harty Ferry. Due to wind over the tide bounce, we moved up to Elmley, where all was quiet and tranquil.

Many, poo poo the Swale, but Elmley makes a good anchorage in 3 m to 4 m of water at low tide.

East of the Lillies Cardinal Buoy marking the wide shallow flats running into Elmley ‘hill’ back east towards the port and starboard buoys closer to the old ferry hards is the spot to go. We used it later in the summer too…

We also had a mini Finesse Festival with three Finesse 24s meeting up at Queenborough and a sail up to Chatham for a second night together.

Left to right: Whimbrel, Calluna and Gypsy – all Finesse 24s.

At Chatham, a convivial evening drinks gathering was enjoyed with three couples spread about the deck of Calluna, a ’24’ with cutter rig. The rules requiring at least 1 m+ and preferably 2 metres separation between house-hold bubbles…

Returning downstream, we had a fantastic sail in company. Whimbrel left the other boats outside Stangate, where we went instead of heading ‘home’.

Gypsy and Calluna in Saltpan Reach.
The three boats at sunset…

Later, we wended our way into Faversham. There I sought out the Finesse 24, Quo Vadis, which I knew was at Alan Staley’s Yard, being worked on.

The boat has had her keel bolts renewed, some water ingress rot repairs have been made and she’s been fitted with a redesigned deck edge and rubbing band arrangement. Toe rails have been fitted and stanchions removed. A gaff cutter rig is being fitted too, the new rigging ‘chain plates’ can be seen…

Quo Vadis with her ballast keel off.

She looked lovely, awaiting final hull painting…

Our plans for the summer included a slow sail up the London River to Limehouse – I’ll cover this separately. A booking made a year earlier for a production at The Globe had long gone by the wayside!

On our way back to Chatham for the second time during the summer, we again stopped off at Elmley. We left the dinghy moored on the mainland hard, which provides clean footing to the shore.

WW2 wooden Mine Sweeper remains at Elmley Ferry.

At the top of the hard sit a couple of dismantled wooden mine sweepers from WW2 whilst out on the flats another rests, abandoned and gradually rotting.

We enjoyed a lovely circular walk around the bird reserve which enjoys the old brick works area and digging pools.

Murston’s old church – now being converted into an arts centre.

On the way back down Milton Creek, I, in particular, enjoyed getting close up to old works remains, creek-side derelict wharves and ‘boarding’ an old spritsail barge buried to her decks in cord grass.

The spritsail barge Gladstone, a brick barge built 1867, of 38 net tons, apparently abandoned here c1930 – clearly long before her time was really up!

While in the anchorage at The Lillies, we witnessed the spritsail barge Dawn coming round from Kingsferry Bridge, under sail, luff up into Milton Creek, reducing sail and work the bends to below the new road bridge, where she anchored. Her boat then took some cargo up to Crown Quay, where the sailing barge Raybel is berthed for a rebuild. Look at the web site.

The Milton Barge Museum has been moved here into a purpose built building, as per the original burnt down by vandals some years ago. The quay has been designated a heritage development/facility.

The Dawn passing Grovehurst Jetty outside Milton Creek.
Dawn, bringing up inside Milton Creek.
A ‘Lillies’ sunset…

On passage to Chatham, where we needed to utise the laundry facilities, we were in for a treat as we passed the bawley Doris and the barge-yacht Nancy Grey.

Doris through Whimbrel’s sails…
Nancy Grey enjoying herself in the hands of new owner, Tim…

I haven’t been able to have a walk down past the Hoo barge graveyard since being ‘shut out’ of Hoo Marina which no longer takes visitors. The boat yard at hoo will, if able to sit in the mud and also the Hundred of Hoo sailing Club will facilitate the same. So, passing, I focused at full telephoto on my camera and ‘had a look’ …

The recognisable barge is the Ena, the last to be added to the collection here – they act as a breakwater to the yard.

The once mighty and pretty Ena resting among around nine of her sisters at Hoo.

In Chatham we had another return visit to the Old Dockyard and following day a trip to Rochester on one of the hottest days of the year. It rather sapped us a little. A chocolate duck Christobel bought for our ‘baby’ was reduced to a sad congealed blob in its bag!

A quiet afternoon and night was spent anchored north of the old water barge wreck in Stangate (It can become a bit rolly-polly here for some strange reason).

I enjoyed an evening sail in the tender, Twitch, whilst my good shipmate washed up our dinner things.

Burntwick Island’s long since abandoned barrack block from the c1890 – 1914 chain barrier across the R. Medway.
The two heavy machine gun posts on the eastern nose of Burntwick in the evening light…

A night in Queenborough to stock up with essential fresh provisions was needed before our Thames jaunt. We arrived promptly and enjoyed the walk to the new shopping complex outside the little town.

It is a pleasant walk along lengths of the old course of Queenborough Creek, providing exercise to offset, a little, the holiday beer allowance I was then enjoying!

Sailing into Queenborough we watched the sailing barge Adieu sail past the two giant drilling rigs parked on the old ferry berth, awaiting the call to another job.

Yes, it was a good start, but the weather had warmed appreciably with the best on the agenda…

07/24/20

Ditch-Crawler decides Whimbrel needs some new chain…

Hauling out the chain from the locker when anchoring some while back during the period we were being allowed to go sailing for exercise, under the Covid-19 restrictions, I realised that my ‘rustier’ length of anchor chain had rusted much further since last used!

The chain was purchased without really looking into where chains were made (mostly in China now) and what were the best qualities, in respect to galvanising in particular.

I alighted on Jimmy Green who were one of the few suppliers which give comprehensive information about chain available, its quality and in particular the galvanising.

I then came across EYE Marine based near Suffolk Yacht Harbour, Levington. I got the same information about galvanising in particular too.

The two companies are linked below:

https://jimmygreen.com/mf-grade-40/79273-8mm-din766-mf-grade-40-calibrated-anchor-chain?search_query=chain&results=272

http://www.mooringequipment.co.uk/

EYE Catalogue…

The same quality EYE chain was somewhat cheaper than at Jimmy Green – MF grade 40 hot dipped galvanised, made exclusively by MF Catenificio Frierio, Italy – but carriage was more expensive!

So, I said to Christobel, ‘Do you fancy a day out in Suffolk with a wander round Woodbridge…’

‘Oh yes…’ she said, eyes wide open and full of sparkle!

The deal was done. Chain was ordered while we were away sailing a week or so ago and collected a couple of days ago.

Yesterday it was taken down to Whimbrel’s mooring, laid out and 5 m lengths marked off with paint.

Painting the 5 m markings.
Chain ready for joining to remaining good (relatively new section).
Stainless steel joining link showing rivets riveted over. (There are four in total)
Finally, the end is shackled onto anchor with a greased pin then seized with monel wire.

We enjoyed a coffee and cake in a place not used before (probably new since our last visit) and enjoyed a walk about. Some crab and prawns were picked up and we later drove to The Suffolk Food Hall near Bourne Bridge and had a picnic overlooking the River Orwell…

We were surprised at the number of closed/empty shops etc in Woodbridge. The place lacked any buzz, whereas locally in Hadleigh, Essex, a vibrancy has returned.

We wandered down to the waterfront too, of course, talking about when we next sail into this delightful river…

06/26/20

Ditch-crawler enjoys a week of glorious carnival weather, finding courtesy and cheerfulness…

This last week has been a wonderful week to be able to get afloat: the sun has blazed down, largely being too hot and sticky, but it has driven my good ship-mate down to our creek, reading and relaxing, whilst I’ve done a few small jobs. And, more importantly, to wanting to be afloat in the cool.

In the last week we have spent five of the days using Whimbrel for glorious afternoon sailing. The wind has been benign, no more than a good force 4, providing perfect sailing conditions and much cooling as it moved into an easterly flow.

Whimbrel romping along under her own control on the one sail alone!

It seems an age now that the Brent geese disappeared. Spring has long gone too and we’re well into the summer period. Sailing though has been limited by the Corona Crisis, but a semblance of normality is slowly returning.

The numbers of people out on the water has been quite large and increased daily. These ranged from motor-cruisers, sailing yachts, sailing dinghies, canoes, paddle boarders, speed boat and jet skis. The whole gamut…

One of the things we noticed was the courtesy displayed by virtually all met. A canoeist commented on this too, as we chatted as we sailed past him.

Some fine ‘old’ ships were seen and appreciated too.

The ancient Little Ship, Come at Last, built in 1902.
The 1982 built Finesse 24 Gypsy with her two owners aboard enjoying a cracking afternoon together…
Close by the racks of the Leigh-on-Sea Sailing Club is the pretty 1922 gaff cutter Betty II.
Another ‘old timer-looking’, was the Finesse 24 Calluna – another relative youngster built in 1981.

All three of the Finesse 24s are Island Yacht Club boats…

From the Hunter stable – the sweet little Poppy was seen too. She’s owned by a couple who once had a half-share in a Finesse 24. They love this little yacht and make the most of her as often as they can, putting many larger boat owners to ‘shame’ in fun and usage!

It is a great shame that craft like these are no longer built (manufactured).

Poppy.
An older Westerly yacht – older than the three Finesse 24’s sailing around her!

A largish collection of dinghies were out on each day and a ‘club’ patrol boat puttered around keeping watch.

I was entranced by a youngster casually practising capsize and recovery drills. Perfect each time. Dinghies like the Lazer being sailed weren’t around in my younger days – a humble Mirror was what we (my three siblings and I) were allowed to play with.

A club patrol boat…

Two shots of a capsize drill…

Over she goes … helm works round transom…
Get hold of dagger board, pull and grasp gunnel as she rights…

A huge number of paddle boarders and canoeists were out, savouring the calm waters – well there were choppy-ish areas to be found. These pleasure pursuers tend to ‘float’ around the marsh edges, but can often be seen a fair distance out.

One day, the vhf radio on a coaster ‘shouted’ warnings of a canoeist in mid ship channel off Canvey Island. Not sensible and if a large ship had been coming, could be dangerous . Thames VTS were somewhat concerned!

Upon a sparkling sea…
Daddy doing all the work as his children sat back!

There were a number of ski-craft about, mostly in the allotted areas, this one – below – came through the moorings though, but wash was limited.

A ski-boat hauling a chap on a board – more power seemed to be needed!
A few of these were about too … only on one day did a heard of them come careering through moorings and other craft…

Friendly motor-cruisers went by at moderate speeds, fast enough to get places, but slow enough to soak up surroundings and feel the cool air blowing past…

A ‘modern’ grp motor-cruiser, type unknown.

Sailing a little way up past the old abandoned Salvation Army wharf groups of people had settled by the water for afternoon picnics and in one case, a spot of fishing.

Walkers abounded on the wall – a route Christobel and I have taken several times during the initial Covid-19 lock-down period.

A family picnics and fishes for their supper…
Running up Hadleigh Ray past the Salvation Army wharf.

On one of the days, midweek, as we were coming round the deep water passage south of Bargander Sand towards our own creek, a yacht was spotted ‘out of channel’. The tides have been mid range and there would have been barely a metre over the shallowest point.

I said to Christobel, ‘look there’s two crew waving with both arms…’ We looked at each other, and i added, ‘I think they’re asking for help!’

I sailed as close as I dared to the yacht, Alian of Beaumaris, with some plate down: we were tacking.

‘Can you help’ a voice called, adding, ‘We’re aground’.

I said I could see that: there isn’t much water in that area. I made them understand that we would stow sail and motor back. That done, I grabbed most of my best 3-strand mooring lines and joined them to make a long tow rope.

The first attempt by crew to secure the tow failed, retrieving and coming back round I called, ‘Make it fast properly please…’

I let Whimbrel take the strain, then gradually opened her up. Nothing. Huge cavitation. The yacht was fast.

Christobel in the mean time had called Thames VTS to inform them of what we were doing. This was belayed when the Island Yacht Club’s work boat, Fairway II, came out (she was in creek working) upon hearing our call.

I later tried calling VTS by phone to up-date them. I got an answer phone and gave up.

Attempting to tow yacht Alian off Bargander sand.

Our work boat was finding it difficult to reach the casualty . I way-laid a passing RIB and asked them to pass the tow line, which they did – twice. It was very good of them; the driver said they were low on fuel, being virtually dry (another lesson there).

The RIB passing the tow line.

It didn’t look like the boat was going to come off. The club’s work boat was struggling in the shallow water and had little steerage.

The yacht was pulled to quite an angle, turned through 90 degrees, but move, no!

Oooooooooooooooo!

Time was moving on and we were both watching the clock and I was casting looks back towards Smallgains creek: I could see we hadn’t a lot of time to get back into our mooring.

The wok boat ceased her attempts – dropping our line overboard for yacht to retrieve… They’re mine I shouted into the wind!

We had a bit of a laugh with the crewman later…

Wheeling round and coming as close as we dared, I called out my contact details – they were clearly repeated. I said, ‘send me an email: I want my lines back…’

I also strongly advised them to call the Coast Guard and let them know too.

A debonair crew…

We made it back into our mooring with little time to spare grounding within ten minutes.

leaving the boat, we heard the tones of Southend’s hover lifeboat roaring to the rescue. The crew were taken off and put ashore on Two Tree Island’s hard.

The RNLI hovercraft alongside the Alian.
Whimbrel running towards leigh-on-Sea’s Bell Wharf…

We enjoyed another fine sail before the end of the week heralded shopping and other chores!

The yacht was still out there, anchored on the shallows, surprisingly afloat (tides have been around 0.3 m above prediction daily this past week) and I was even more confused as to why an attempt to retrieve wasn’t happening. Strange.

I wrote at the beginning about courtesy – after two days ‘we’ have not had a communication from the boat’s owner(s).

I shall wait and see a few days.

Getting them back could otherwise be troublesome.

Around forty metres of 12 mm, 3-strand polyester, isn’t cheap. And then there would be serving and eye splicing to do to.

We’ve often gone to the help of those in trouble upon the water and I’d like to think, we would be treated the same.

We had planned to go out for the day on this coming Saturday or Sunday, but the weather has turned particularly windy. A walk in the wide open Essex country-side beckons…

P.S. Christobel eventually contacted the Benfleet YC to ask about yacht. Later the secretary responded and thanked us for our help towards one of their members and stated that owner wants to return warps in person. When? Not called us yet – 5 days on!

06/21/20

Ditch-crawler learns of a near completed Finesse 24 refurbishment project for sale…

A stalwart of the Finesse Group has had to place his near completed refurbed boat on the market.

See: https://www.apolloduck.co.uk/boat.phtml?id=639051

Sadly, the reason being is due to a move to another country for work.

The boat was purchased by the current owner some years ago from a yard round the Swale in Kent. Following various essential areas of work, she was sailed down ‘west’ to Poole Harbour.

Tig (of Tollesbury) – Arjen Schipmolder

The boat, Tig (of Tollesbury), was used for the rest of the season, before coming ashore for detailed examination of known defects and for rectification works to be put in hand.

The boat has an extensive list of equipment, mostly new.

Her ballast keel has been off and re-seated with new keel bolts. She was essentially taken back to bare wood on outer hull and cabin sides.

The boat dates to c1973, going by her hull/sail number of 21. You’ll note that her cabin windows are of an older shape.

The work entailed to finish her is not extensive. The current owner lists these.

The owner is willing to take offers for he cannot get back to UK to finish her.

Go to the link for details.

06/16/20

Ditch-crawler reflects on a recent River Medway visit…

My last post, where I talked about the numbers of local yachting folk ignoring the requirement to return to main residence after a day (or a period) on the water, exercising, caused some ‘anger’ to surface out there.

My use of ‘gets angry’ in particular, seemed to be a problem, but I did say quite clearly that I didn’t think staying out at anchor would cause anyone or myself a problem. I simply asked sailors to be mindful of what we are supposed to do – nothing wrong with that, surely?

Caravan owners are having to comply to same rule, those that don’t have been stopped on various roads and sent home … well documented in the news.

Leaving Smallgains Creek early on a Sunday morning recently…

But there was a problem. One sailor after commenting on the Medway swale boating Association site also sent me a pretty damning email, to which I did not rise to. I calmly sent my thanks for comments. I have since seen the content of that email on a public site…

It was quite noticeable that the obedient majority, stayed largely eerily silent. Frustrated is the word I should have homed in on …

I am sorry if I upset anyone: respect of each others views is important – my view was vilified, but I will let it rest.

As an aside, I have refrained from comment on my facebook page on more times than I can remember to avoid unnecessary ‘clashes’ during the past few months … perhaps I should have ignored what has been going on!

To better things…

Last weekend marked my 65th birthday – a milestone, or just another one of life’s landmarks. I don’t feel any older, and certainly, according to my dear wife, don’t act it…

A lovely present from my good shipmate…

At the beginning of the year we planned to be taking my ‘Canadian’ brother, who was coming over for a visit, away with us sailing with a stop-over in Conyer to enjoy the hospitality of The Ship Inn. My brother’s flight has been turned into a ticket for later use … and we didn’t go, obviously.

So, with a weekend of fine weather, we did four hours of planking renewals on our club moorings on the Saturday and on Sunday dropped down to Whimbrel at 0545 to get ready to go as soon as afloat.

As we left the creek, the early morning sun sparkled on a slightly ruffled surface, the day’s warmth was then already making itself felt.

Sails were pulling nicely and the engine was silenced within a few minutes. passing east of the Leigh Middle Buoy a huge ship was seen approaching from the sea. We had been tipped off about about this by our ‘shipping’ son.

Boy was she big! She is in fact the largest vessel currently on the high seas.

We seemed so close, yet were ell clear for the guard boat took little notice of us.

The HMM Algeciras

It was n’t long before breakfast appeared – a tasty bacon filled bap. Soon after the West Nore sand swept by to port as we left the deep water and picked up speed over the shallows towards the Grain Flats.

It was just great. The feeling of seeing my (and Christobel’s) beloved river coming into view beyond the old fort and business of Garrison Point. The good mate kept looking at me a smiling broadly, she could see and tell, I was in my happiness place!

Cutting across the Grain Flats and nipping inside the fort…

Ah, the river looked and felt delightful. I was ‘home’ … it is a place of many and long memories. One of my earliest was ‘helping’ to row with sweeps the spritsail barge May Flower across to the mud edge near Blackstakes … tumbling memories cascade before me, as I write.

In the distance we saw numerous sails of the Lower Halstow YC Red Sands Tower race coming down Stangate Creek on the first of the flood. Well done all for the turn out. You were a splendid sight.

Part of the Lower Halstow YC fleet approaching Victoria Buoy…

Passing Stangate Creek, I looked the other way … before taking quick peek. A veritable forest! Good luck to them all, I thought.

How far would we get. Gillingham Reach would have been nice… We’d cut by close under Sharp Ness and were making well towards the Bulwark wreck buoys. Here the wind suddenly went fickle and way was virtually lost.

Creaming over the ebb toward Sharp Ness…

We turned. We’d made it thus far, pointless flogging the ebb for little gain. The sky was filled with summery puff ball clouds, blotting the sun, briefly, from time to time. Oh it was just wonderful. It was easy pleasant sailing. We’ve had tastes, getting out on the tide, but a longer trip is different.

One of two giant rigs that will soon be sitting ‘on’ Garrison Point.

Going out of the harbour we had a chat to an ‘old boy’ who knew my parents in ‘May Flower’ days. It was a few years ago now he made himself known, however, we’ve still to meet either at Queenborough or at the Medway YC. He railed against not being ‘allowed to saty out and said, bluntly, he wasn’t prepared to do so.

We briefly discussed the approaching 4th of July review: caravan friends have reported to me that this is the date the Caravan Club expects a ‘release’… This will of course include yacht folk.

We had a good look at the first of two mighty deep sea drilling rigs which arrived some time earlier this spring. The next is due soon. Both are ‘out of work’ and will be resting while demand for new petroleum reserves is low!

See: http://msba.org.uk/?p=5749

I commented to my mate about the Grain Edge Buoy: Peel Portds have instigated a review into whether this boy should be updated with an easterly cardinal – my choice (lit) – or retained as a grenn conical.

The Grain Edge Buoy – under review.

See: http://msba.org.uk/?p=5801#comment-204020

For decades I have sailed close to it and rarely round it – usually when tacking northward. I hope it is replaced and positioned just east of the 2 metre tongue a little north of current buoy.

Picture – Peel Ports – Grain Edge Buoy.

It was wonderful sailing, fast, but not furious. The gaunt and guano streaked rusted masts of the Richard Montgomery rushed up, we headed to the north. Once clear we turned ‘west’ towards the Nore. Chrsitobel took over here for a longish spell…

She said afterwards, ‘I loved that bit … Whimbrel did too … you could feel her lifting her skirts and dance along.’

Yes, indeed.

The Ministry of defence has recently issued a call for interested companies to tender for the removal of the Richard Montgomery’s masts. Latest survey results show a decided decline in the old ship’s structure. The masts will be exerting weight and stress forces on these rusting structures.

The underwater sonar pictures of the wreck are interesting indeed. Sobering: a slight change in the natural balance of flows here and the ship could end up sliding into the Medway’s channel…

The masts of the USS ammunition ship, Richard Montgomery.

See: https://www.peelports.com/media/5513/ntom-no-29-of-2020-approaches-to-sheerness-grain-edge-buoy-consultation.pdf

Heading west from the wreck…

Around six hours after leaving our mooring we were coming up the Ray Channel. A small group of common seals were basking in the warmth upon the yellow sun drenched sands as we came in.

Some distance beyond the seal, we fetched up to the edge and touched on … dropping anchor and stowing sails. After our lunch, I dropped overboard for a little swim! The mate went below for a nap…

A sailing friend walked down from his own boat, ‘parked’ in the shallows further west. He wanted to wish me a personal ‘happy birthday’ – thank you very much Robert.

Whimbrel anchored on the Ray Sand edge…

During the middle of the afternoon we departed for a waiting spot outside Smallgains Creek and tidied ship.

On the way up a little converted sailing canoe swept past with two crew keeping her up. She has been fitted with outriggers. She was a pretty sight indeed.

Nice little sailing canoe conversion…

And then, as the afternoon wore away into early evening, the anchor was hauled and we pottered into our creek under power.

25 nautical miles.

A grand day.

Evening sun glistens on the creek…
05/29/20

Ditch-crawler gets angry about local sailors (Lower Thames & Medway) disregarding Covid-19 instructions…

Since the first easing of our Government’s Covid-19 restrictions, us sailors, boater, canoeists, paddle boarders, dinghy sailors and motor boaters etc, have been able to fulfil a long desired dream of time out on the water, in England – the devolved administrations are acting a little differently, as are some English regions.

However, the requirement to return to main home and not to a 2nd home or caravan and that includes pleasure craft, remains in force. The requirement is unambiguous and straightforward.

I have been asked by numerous members at my own sailing club about whether or not one can go out overnight and became, quite frankly, pretty fed up with answering the same question, when the writing is as clear as can be. I have also seen pictures of moored craft at night in Stangate Creek across the Thames inside the River Medway – made me angry: I too would like to potter off for a few days – harmless to me and others, but…

Out for a sail on the tide the other day, I was passed by a yacht returning up the Ray – it must have been: it could not have got away from its mooring before I left my creek…

The boat will remain nameless … when pictured, I was homing in on a tern sitting on the red buoy before becoming aware of the craft’s approach.

Seen returning up Hadleigh Ray from the ‘sea’…

Passing, I challenged the helm … unrepentant as hell … it made us both quite cross: we’ve endeavoured to be as strict as we can in adhering to requirements. With a boat sitting ready, it has been hard!

I just caught the tern before it lifted off…

I wrote to the Port of London Authority to give their verdict on requirements.

This was the response I have received and although this is the port of London’s view it is the view of all known marine organisations and harbour authorities:

Thank you for your email of 27 May 2020.

I have discussed your query with colleagues – we agree that your interpretation of the current government covid / coronavirus guidelines is correct.

If we take those government guidelines as the starting point, then it may be helpful if I quote these verbatim:

·       “You should stay at home as much as possible”

·       “Leaving your home – the place you live – to stay at another home is not allowed”

·       “Day trips to outdoor open space, in a private vehicle, are permitted”

·       “Leaving your home – the place you live – to stay at another home for a holiday or other purpose is not allowed. This includes visiting second homes”.

My source is this government website – dated 22 May 2020:  https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/coronavirus-outbreak-faqs-what-you-can-and-cant-do/coronavirus-outbreak-faqs-what-you-can-and-cant-do

The RYA is also publishing information on the government guidelines. See: https://www.rya.org.uk/newsevents/news/Pages/coronavirus-advice-and-information-for-recreational-boaters.aspx

Kind regards

Martin Garside

Port of London Authority

Thank you, thank you, Martin: I was beginning to think it was me!

We had a glorious sail, meeting up with some friends who had just been able get their lovely little yacht, Poppy, launched that morning.

Whimbrel running along the Chalkwell shore – picture Billy Chapman

Poppy’s crew took a number of lovely shots as we briefly sailed in close quarters… We were out for a further 3/4 of an hour before sailing into our creek, under head sail, and berthing without resort to power. Lovely!

I have since also accessed the Royal Yachting Association guidance for recreational sailors/boaters etc.

RYA Guide…

As you will see it is as clear as it can possibly be, vis, picture of a house, GO HOME!

So, fellow sailors, forget ‘Cummings’ and others, do your bit properly and don’t be part of a set-back, please…

Warning: Dated, Wednesday 24 June 2020

Today, from a reliable source within the yachting literati, I received news that I have been accused of informing the police about a certain sailor being away from home. This was after the person(s) concerned received a visit from the police.

The person concerned stated that I have mentioned their name(s) in this post.

I wish to state publicly that I have not and would not contact the police on this matter.

I deliberately did not name any boater in my post.

I have also been told that there is a desire to burn my books from that person and others!

I have also been informed that a person has stated that given the opportunity they will burn Whimbrel.

Currently I am treating this threat lightly, however, if further reports reach me I will not hesitate to contact the police.

A fellow sailor today called to me that they have been hearing many stories relating to me and this post. He said people are ‘so sad’.

This is a sad reflection on the so called ‘caring society’ that we live in.

Guilt is caustic, I do hope those that feel this way reflect.

05/21/20

Ditch-crawler learns of a pretty Finesse 21 for sale…

A fellow owner of a Finesse contacted to say that, reluctantly, he had decided to put his Finesse 21, Ivy May, up for sale. He has owned her for a dozen years or so.

SORRY SHE’S SOLD!

When the chap bought Ivy May, he wasn’t even married, but now, with two growing boys who take up all the space, a larger boat was needed.

Ivy May sailing through Queenborough Harbour on her way to The Leigh-on-Sea Festival. – 2018.
Picture: Nick Ardley.

I have known, Tim, the owner of Ivy May for a number of years meeting here and there at rallies or just out. He is a keen, enthusiastic, almost ‘boyish’ sailor with guts and experience. He has made it to a rally ‘up the coast’ from the Lower Thames more than once in conditions that put others off. He trusts the boat. And that is something about a Finesse – she will look after you.

The boat was originally rigged as a Bermudian cutter and was in need of quite a major overhaul when Tim found her in 2004 at the Iron Wharf Boatyard in Faversham.

Ivy May as found by Tim in 2004. Picture: Tim Mulcahy

The refit took until the spring of 2006 to complete, and she looked stunning upon her re-launching.

Ivy May in 2006. Picture: Tim Mulcahy.

It wasn’t long before Tim decided that a gaff rig was what he wanted and a new set of spars and sails were ordered.

Ivy May reefed down on her way to the 2014 Finesse Rally at Chatham Marina.
Picture: Nick Ardley.

As with most Finesse yachts that come on the market, there will be an inevitable job list, as with all boats. But, on a wooden wonder, your efforts will be duly rewarded.

Ivy May at a Finesse Rally. Picture: Nick Ardley.

What I would say to a prospective purchaser is go and take a look. This boat has been used for sailing, not sitting around. Some things that I know of need attention – Tim knows of these too, obviously!

In the main, some deck edges need attention: the decks and cabin tops are marine ply covered with glass cloth and epoxy. Sometimes an insert is needed, more often than not a simple epoxy repair will suffice and paint. The main cabin hatch needs a new top or complete renewal.

For details, see: https://yachts.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/finesse-21/636594

Go on, you know you’d love her at first sight … she sits in her berth at Oare Creek, near Faversham, ready for that magical test sail…

Ivy May alongside her larger Finesse 24 sister, Whimbrel at Queenborough Classic event in 2018.
Picture: Nick Ardley.

Contacts for Tim.

Email: mulcahy321@btinternet.com

Tel: 07944 208069

Information given is best that I am aware and prospective buyers are advised to make own judgement.

SORRY SOLD!